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Posted 22 May 2013Hi all,
I am trying to get 4 plates made for my niece's engagement party next weekend. I have thrown about 4, and I am terrible at throwing plates! They all come out different widths! I like to throw, and usually prefer throwing over hand building, but am I better off just hand building some plates and then putting a foot on them? Are there any big differences in the final product? Thanks much,
When throwing plates, you can become more consistent size wise by weighing out the amounts, 4-5 lbs. use calipers if it is important to get same size. Use wetter clay to throw plates than you normally use. Watch rim thickness, and make certain after opened up to compress the bottom well-I use a large wooden rim that is curved slightly for mine laying it on its side partway. Throw on bats to aid in removal. If you are doing these things, I don't know what the problem is, but maybe this will help. Considering the time frame you are talking about here, you may find rolling out a thick slab, placing it on a bat, trimming to size compressing the bottom, and then lifting a rim easier. I don't know. Plates do take some practice. Hope I could help you.
Posted 22 May 2013You're right Jim, the Walker is almost a mixer. I love those things. They are built like tanks, and you can fit so much clay in there at a time. If I had space in my classroom, I'd be hunting for a used one, all over.
I used the Walker at school for 25 years, we bought it new. I would pug clay that had been slaked down and left sit for a month, mixing this with pots that had been slopped for some reason or other but kept wet. I went through major pugging at the end of the year, filling 55 gal. buckets with new clay. These I would cover with old wet towels and put the tight lids on over top. In the Fall when we returned, I would start from boxed clay that was new for the Ceramics 1's. The Ceramics 2 students had to use the old clay-poor things! The old clay had become so plastic over the summer much better than the new boxed stuff. Their gripe was that they had to dig it out of the bucket. I always found that a mix of slaked clay and pots that had been leather hard or less worked to together to have a pretty reasonable clay.
Nowadays I recycle by throwing my splash pan slop and trimmings into a bag, spray some water inside, twist it closed, and turn the bag upside down. Usually two weeks later I wedge it up to reuse. At this point I don't have problems wedging 15-20 lb at a time, and usually do so at least 400 turns when it is that size. Most times my bag fulls are smaller. If need be I use cut and smash with finger pokes in each bread piece spraying with water, slamming, turning and cutting until consistent then return to cone wedging.Then I usually leave this set for two weeks before use.
Posted 21 May 2013Pete Pinnell posted this lovely bowl on his facebook page. All I can say is WOW!
Best guess is that it is a result of controlled clear glaze dripping into holes of pre-made pattern. Let's just say you would have to master both your glaze knowledge and your porcelain work to reach the exact point where it drips into the holes with no visible drip lines beyond the holes and not onto the shelves.
I might match it by using a template on the outside, then sandblast the greenware piece with a fine sandblaster like what is used on glass dishes. Then glaze. Either way you look at it, it is aaammmazing! Puzzling too!
Posted 21 May 2013Pres has hit on the slant I had in mind when I made the OP. What do you do to add percieved value to you simple stock pieces, the easy to make- easy to sell base line that pays the booth rent? How to get a buyer to see a simple to make piece at 20% higher a price through percieved value.
On that specific question, for me the answer to make sure, when a customer picks up a mug/cup/bowl, it feels light and well-balanced and comfortable to hold. I want them to visualize themselves using it, and for the pot to become one of their favorites. Not only will this command higher prices, it's more likely they'll become repeat customers, and tell their friends how much they enjoy the pot. Which leads to higher prices :-)
Right on! A comfortable handle, good weight, comfortable not too thin rim with lip curve, smooth bottom, and pleasing decoration: all of these point to a professional piece of pottery well worth the purchase price.
Posted 21 May 2013I'm glad you enjoyed it. I'd like to learn a little about YOU through your work! Got a website?
Just watched your video, big changes country to city and back again. As stated before it is great that you live in a community that supports the arts so well. Happy Potting!
- Member Title:
- Advanced Member
- 63 years old
- August 20, 1949
- Central, PA
- Camping, kayaking, family, travel, Art in general. I have a small studio in my garage. Two electric kilns, two wheels, wedging table etc. I am primarily interested in cone 6 Ox. but like to see what is going on at all ranges. Read about ceramics voraciously and love the feel of the clay and throwing. Have to admit that my greatest joy is in the making, not the glazing. That said I do mix my own glazes, some of my own formulas, some borrowed. Retired from teaching art, last year after 36 years, taught ceramics 34 of those years.