: Mark C. - Viewing Profile

Here is what you do;
1.Pour off the surface water into a clean container. You will be returning it to the glaze later.
2. Get you pear corer [large trimming tool] Loosen up all the glaze.
3.You may even have to pour it out onto a canvas.
4. Pour the water back in.
5.Gradually add the glaze, using a drill with a paint stirrer.
6.Once you have all the glaze back in, add enough water to make the glaze the consistency of cream.
7.Sieve through an 80 mesh sieve into a clean pail.
8.Wash original pail. Then sieve glaze back through a 100 mesh sieve.
9. You do not need Epsom salts. The reason glazes go rock hard immediately, is because they do not have enough clay in them. Friitted glazes are the worst for this. I always add 3% Bentonite to my glazes. Also makes the unfired surface of the glaze tough.
Enjoy!
TJR.

I have been studying The Kiln Book 3rd edition by Frederick Olsen. When speaking of downdraft kilns, I understand the inlet and outlet area size in square inches should be the same. Most of the designs have the burner inlets at the same height as the flue vents or chimney outlet. One design has the burners below the flue vent outlet height ( pgs. 110 -124). Can the flue vent outlet height be lower than the burner inlets?

I want to create a flue vent in the floor of the kiln instead of at the base of the kiln's sidewall. Thus the hot air will exit through the floor of the kiln, run horizontally until it reaches the outer edge of the sidewall, then form a chimney along the outer wall. I am converting an old electric paragon kiln to gas and want to make sure a flor flu vent is as good as a sidewall flue vent.


Suggestions?


Jed