Matt Oz's Profile
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- In the Studio (73 posts)
- 16-December 11
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- May 23 2013 07:50 PM
Topics I've Started
Posted 3 Jul 2012I posted a while back in the studio section...best-blue-for-colored-clay
It seemed to be getting technical, so I'm posting the results here.
My clay fires to a glassy finish at cone 6 and only needs small amounts of stain, so I don't know how informative this is. Maybe more for glazes.
Cobalt Mason Stains:
Mazerine 6300- the darkest, but a little more on the red side. Also acts as a strong flux.
Wedgewood 6310– Not as dark, seems closer to blue, doesn't flux. Lighter shades (smaller amounts) still have noticeable red.
Zirconium Vanadium Mason Stain 6315:
Makes nice light blues, but close to turquoise. Mixing a small amount of Mazerine with it also made a nice blue.
Stains added to wedgable clay
Posted 1 Jun 2012I only do production in spurts, but when I do, I like to keep the process as quick and simple as possible. Here are a few things that I have found, at least for my work, not to be necessary.
I did a bunch of tests back in the day, and found that scoring before adding slip wasn't necessary. I do however, have to go over the surfaces to be joined, with a wet sponge or brush a couple times, (enough to break up the surface a little), before applying slip. I have found this method to be faster, easier, and just as strong, maybe stronger..
I also don't use reinforcing coils on joints. When the slip has dried some after joining, and is still a bit sticky, but not watery, I smooth the join with a stiff brush, and that's it. On my porcelain lampshades and stoneware vases, once the slip has dried some, I will take a small tool with a rounded end, and smooth the inside vertical joins a few times, applying enough pressure to compress it a little, to prevent cracks.
Are there some traditional things, you have found not to be necessary?
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