: Matt Oz - Viewing Profile

I posted a while back in the studio section...best-blue-for-colored-clay

It seemed to be getting technical, so I'm posting the results here.

My clay fires to a glassy finish at cone 6 and only needs small amounts of stain, so I don't know how informative this is. Maybe more for glazes.

Cobalt Mason Stains:
Mazerine 6300- the darkest, but a little more on the red side. Also acts as a strong flux.
Wedgewood 6310– Not as dark, seems closer to blue, doesn't flux. Lighter shades (smaller amounts) still have noticeable red.

Zirconium Vanadium Mason Stain 6315:
Makes nice light blues, but close to turquoise. Mixing a small amount of Mazerine with it also made a nice blue.

Stains added to wedgable clay

I only do production in spurts, but when I do, I like to keep the process as quick and simple as possible. Here are a few things that I have found, at least for my work, not to be necessary.

I did a bunch of tests back in the day, and found that scoring before adding slip wasn't necessary. I do however, have to go over the surfaces to be joined, with a wet sponge or brush a couple times, (enough to break up the surface a little), before applying slip. I have found this method to be faster, easier, and just as strong, maybe stronger..

I also don't use reinforcing coils on joints. When the slip has dried some after joining, and is still a bit sticky, but not watery, I smooth the join with a stiff brush, and that's it. On my porcelain lampshades and stoneware vases, once the slip has dried some, I will take a small tool with a rounded end, and smooth the inside vertical joins a few times, applying enough pressure to compress it a little, to prevent cracks.

Are there some traditional things, you have found not to be necessary?