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Posted 19 May 2013Jim,
I hope you are OK. You seem a bit stressed lately. Enjoy your summer off. I hope the semester is over for you.
Thanks, I'm just having fun. The only stress I have is my rooster with 3 inch spurs keeps hiding in bushes so he can jump out and stick a spur 2 inches into my leg while I'm carrying a wareboard full of mugs to the kiln. But I am a bit concerned about you. The last time I was in school semesters were quarters.
Posted 19 May 2013BTW, I seem to be stuck in neutral. Even with a troll like Stephen hovering over his minus button I'm only at -7 reputation. So please people even if you agree with a post of mine, hit the minus button so I can see what is below neutral.
Thanks in advance for your cooperation.
Posted 19 May 2013Trina,
I somehow missed all that passed between you and Sandefur. Spineless is indeed a shocking expression to call someone here. I am sorry that transpired. The anonymity of the web even with names and faces seems to let people say just about whatever pops into their head without much thinking. I have felt insulted a few times here as well. Maybe that's why I prefer to know more about the people on the forum. I can understand them a little better perhaps.
Don't let a few bad experiences make you leave. I enjoy your contributions.
What the hell are you talking about, Marcia?!!!!
Posted 19 May 2013Today I finished my first batch of pots for this month, but realized that the glazes are not a good match for the type of clay I am using. I use the red clay from Georgia, which just happens to be a bit coarse. It also just happens to be darkening the glazes and changing th outcomes of the pieces. Any suggestions on good types of glazes(store bought) for Georgian clay and good methods of applying the glazes evenly?
What you call "Georgian clay" is most likely Lizella Clay (aka Lizella Red). It's a beautiful clay but it will leak no matter how high you fire it or how many glazes you put on it. It should never be used for anything expected to hold liquids. It looks good fired to earthenware temps and takes low fire glazes well but is weak and really leaks badly at low temps. It should be fired to cone 6 but will still leak (but slowly) unless you add lots of Neph Sy to it. It should be bisqued high (~04+) because it has lots of impurities in it (dug from a swamp a few miles from my house) that will gas off during the glaze firing and ruin the glaze if the organics have not been burned off completely during the bisque. It's hard to find a glaze that works well on it because of the high iron content. Use an opaque glaze that can be applied thick without running. The holder in the cup & holder in this picture is Lizella Red. http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=2584
What clay would you recommend for a beginner interested in making pieces that may hold water, but is low-fire ( cone 05-06)?
I'd recommend that if you intend to make pots that hold liquids that you fire higher. Any clay properly formulated for cone 6 should not leak at all even with no glaze on it. There are lots of good cone 6 clays from translucent porcelain to rich red-browns to black. And you will find plenty of beautiful glazes in that range. If you decide to to do low-fire, then I think you have to depend on glazes that fit the clay body so well that the leaking is almost eliminated so that a mug works as long as it is not left on a grand piano overnight. But, somebody else can probably address that better than me because, even though I love the majolica work of low-fire potters like Linda Arbuckle and Jill Manos, I've never done it and don't know how they seal majolica that holds liquids.
Jim, whenever the discussion revolves around making usable wares, that hold water, you always mention the grand piano thing. Is there a back story, or are you just going on the assumption, that everyone owns a grand piano.....I mean I do, but that's just because I'm well to do.....*Polishes monocle*
Sorry to disappoint but there is no back story except that I am shocked by how many potters (not just beginners) make leaking pots. Sure they leak very slowly because the liquid has to seep through microscopic crackle in the glaze and then through a clay body that is almost mature, but such a vase left long enough on a grand pi.... Louis XIV commode will leak. The first thing any potter should do when they start working with a new clay is do a leak test.
Now, since I don't know what you look like, I keep seeing that pupil-less avatar or yours polishing a monocle.
Dang, I was hoping there was some, in depth story. Like how, you mistakenly sold someone, a leaky ware, and they ended up being some shady, ruthless figure, who has since hunted you across the ends of the Earth. And this would also explain, why you keep changing your avatar, as an attempt to stay incognito.....and also, why you'd choose to live in Georgia.......
I live in Middle Georgia (aka The Heart of Darkness) for the flora not the fauna.
Posted 19 May 2013Jim (Offcenter)
Thanks for offering any missing SH formulas.
Do you (or anyone) have Bailey's Red?
I see that Min has already posted it. Good info, too. I haven't had much luck with high purity RIO. The glazes I've tested it in speckle. I like subing Spanish RIO in a lot of saturated iron glazes and have had good results Crocus.
- Member Title:
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- 64 years old
- February 19, 1949
- Lizella, Georgia
- anthropology, tree-climbing, paintball, clay