OffCenter's Profile
Reputation: -15
Poor
- Group:
- Members
- Active Posts:
- 922(0.8 per day)
- Most Active In:
- In the Studio (387 posts)
- Joined:
- 01-April 10
- Profile Views:
- 130,096
- Last Active:
Today, 11:36 AM- Currently:
- Offline
Latest Visitors
-
redwinerum 
Yesterday, 03:49 PM -
Sherman 
Yesterday, 02:16 PM -
A Little Off ... 
Yesterday, 01:54 PM -
lorielle 
Yesterday, 08:52 AM -
Idaho Potter 
Yesterday, 12:44 AM -
Marcia Selsor 
21 May 2013 - 20:44 -
GEP 
21 May 2013 - 12:35 -
atanzey 
21 May 2013 - 11:47 -
justanassembler 
21 May 2013 - 08:43 -
trina 
21 May 2013 - 08:43
Posts I've Made
-
In Topic: your galleries
Posted 23 May 2013
celia12345678910, on 23 May 2013 - 11:48 AM, said:I finally have a little time to read the posts in the communities, and I love that there are so many talented people in the group. I notice that when I view profiles it helps to visualize and TRY to solve problems if I can get an idea of what the final products you make look like. Please take advantage of the gallery benefits of your Ceramics Arts Daily accounts. This would be of good use for people that don't have web pages, and at least Ceramics Arts Daily participants can view your work. Never know, might work like free advertising!OH! I FORGOT! Please let me know when your update your gallery!
Nice piece in you profile gallery. I'd like to know more about it.
Jim -
In Topic: Videos of people making relief decorations in monochrome...
Posted 23 May 2013
JBaymore, on 22 May 2013 - 03:29 PM, said:The relief work on good Yixing is not sprigged. Each element of such designs is hand done with remarkable precision (and the ability to replicate items at a very high level).
I was watching an undergrad class on a very similar type of surface technique at Wuxi Institute of Arts and Technology (in Yixing) a couple of weeks ago, and the painstaking time taken with every movement and the intense focus of each student was what struck me the most.
While the cheap stuff might involve sprigging.... the decent pots don't.
WuxiInstitute-SurfaceDecoration1.jpg
WuxiInstitute-SurfaceDecoration2.jpg
best,
..............john
Maybe when you don't have anything else to do (imagine an emoticon of your choice here), you could post about your trip. I know I'm interested and I bet a lot of other people here are, too. Pictures like those here are fascinating.
Jim -
In Topic: What bisque firing schedule do you use?
Posted 23 May 2013
CarolR, on 22 May 2013 - 10:10 PM, said:
image.jpg
I'm having some problems with bisque firings and would like to run this by you...
I use stoneware which I underglaze at leather hard, then I sgraffito the piece. I let it get to bone dry and do the bisque in an old kiln - it has 4 on/off switches; the manual said to flip one switch an hour and then wait till the kiln sitter turns it off (^04). then I apply clear glaze to the cooled work and fire to ^5 using a newer kiln with an electronic controller.
Then I started having a problem. After the glaze firing some of my pieces had areas, usually circular, where the it looks like the glaze has pulled away, taking the under glaze with it. So there's a small area, sometimes several all near each other, where the clay body is exposed. In the photo, hopefully you can see the white spots, center right. Because I use their products, I called Amaco for help. I was told my bisque firing was too fast, that out gassing was not complete. And I was told a bisque to ^04 should take 10-12 hours! So now, hearing about these fast bisques, I'm confused.
I was an advocate of bisqueing as fast as possible - my little old kiln could fire off in 5 hours. But lately that doesn't seem to be working for me, so I'm going to to do a really slow bisque next time, as Amaco recommends. But why is it that some of you have no problems with a fast bisque? Wouldn't incomplete out gassing affect your glazes? Any thoughts on this? Thanks!
04 is a pretty high bisque so I think Amaco is wrong. The cone you should bisque to depends on the clay. I use a lot of different clays and for some I only bisque to cone 015 to save time and elect. Others to cone 08. Only one clay I use, Lizella Red, needs to be fired to cone 04. It has a lot of organic matter in it and other impurities so I bisque that high to get rid of that and avoid out-gassing. I fire all my bisques as fast as possible. Just slow, depending on how big and thick the pots are, to 250 degrees (to be sure I'm well-past boiling point) and then full-speed to finish. You do a lot of work on your mugs so it is probably something as simple as oil from your hands on bisqued ware or other contaminant or incompatible underglaze, etc.
Jim -
In Topic: Can you talk to me about plates?
Posted 23 May 2013
Marcia Selsor, on 22 May 2013 - 06:11 PM, said:I just made the first dinner set I have made in a couple of years. I didn't lose one plate and I was throwing Frost. I ended up with a set of 8 place settings and a few extra plates.
http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=2527
Like Pres says, weigh the lumps to be equal. center, flatten with a fist, open and keep it flat Keep the calipers there, before you start pulling/pushing out and and several time after. Rib the plate to relieve stress.
I use a chamois on the lip with a practiced edge and they are all the same. Dry slowly. Flipping them over to dry after they have firmed up enough not to sag.. I trim with a soft thin sponge in the center for support.
Marcia
Your dinner set saved me a lot of work. About two years ago I bought a half ton of Frost and no matter how compressed the clay was or flipped during centering, etc., etc. I got cracks in the bottom of mugs, etc. and handles cracked. Frost is so wonderfully translucent that I kept struggling with it and finally solved the problem by adding a little paper to it and used Frost that way until on a post where I warned someone here that Frost would crack if you even looked at it, you said you had just done a dinner set out of Frost with no cracking. That first half ton is long gone so I threw a few wide bottom cylinders that would, without a doubt, have cracked with my old Frost but with new Frost with no paper in it there was no cracking. My conclusion is that I received a bad batch of Frost. So did another potter in my area. Had you not thrown your dinner set out of Frost I'd still be adding paper to mine. Thanks.
BTW, since the glaze on the set is opaque, why did you decide to do the set in Frost?
Jim -
In Topic: What Do You Pug?
Posted 23 May 2013
My Information
- Member Title:
- Advanced Member
- Age:
- 64 years old
- Birthday:
- February 19, 1949
- Gender:
-
- Location:
- Lizella, Georgia
- Interests:
- anthropology, tree-climbing, paintball, clay
Contact Information
- E-mail:
- Click here to e-mail me
- Website URL:
-
http://jimsandefur.com

Sign In
Register
Help


Find Topics
Find Posts
Display name history
Comments
OffCenter
18 May 2013 - 09:54Marcia Selsor
18 May 2013 - 07:57OffCenter
06 Apr 2013 - 08:00Idaho Potter
05 Apr 2013 - 19:28OffCenter
13 Dec 2012 - 10:08TJR
12 Dec 2012 - 17:44Tom Roberts
nancylee
14 Nov 2012 - 06:17