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Posted 22 May 2013
Posted 22 May 2013I also use a splash pan which I made myself out of wood. I don't own a pug mill. I save all my throwing water and slip, with leather hard trimmings. I let this age in a 5 gallon bucket, then dry it out on a plaster bat.Could you be putting too much dry material through your pug?
Maybe its all that Lizella clay.[joking!].
TJR. add" creepy" smiley face here.
Posted 20 May 2013Today I finished my first batch of pots for this month, but realized that the glazes are not a good match for the type of clay I am using. I use the red clay from Georgia, which just happens to be a bit coarse. It also just happens to be darkening the glazes and changing th outcomes of the pieces. Any suggestions on good types of glazes(store bought) for Georgian clay and good methods of applying the glazes evenly?
What you call "Georgian clay" is most likely Lizella Clay (aka Lizella Red). It's a beautiful clay but it will leak no matter how high you fire it or how many glazes you put on it. It should never be used for anything expected to hold liquids. It looks good fired to earthenware temps and takes low fire glazes well but is weak and really leaks badly at low temps. It should be fired to cone 6 but will still leak (but slowly) unless you add lots of Neph Sy to it. It should be bisqued high (~04+) because it has lots of impurities in it (dug from a swamp a few miles from my house) that will gas off during the glaze firing and ruin the glaze if the organics have not been burned off completely during the bisque. It's hard to find a glaze that works well on it because of the high iron content. Use an opaque glaze that can be applied thick without running. The holder in the cup & holder in this picture is Lizella Red. http://ceramicartsda...wimage&img=2584
What clay would you recommend for a beginner interested in making pieces that may hold water, but is low-fire ( cone 05-06)?
I'd recommend that if you intend to make pots that hold liquids that you fire higher. Any clay properly formulated for cone 6 should not leak at all even with no glaze on it. There are lots of good cone 6 clays from translucent porcelain to rich red-browns to black. And you will find plenty of beautiful glazes in that range. If you decide to to do low-fire, then I think you have to depend on glazes that fit the clay body so well that the leaking is almost eliminated so that a mug works as long as it is not left on a grand piano overnight. But, somebody else can probably address that better than me because, even though I love the majolica work of low-fire potters like Linda Arbuckle and Jill Manos, I've never done it and don't know how they seal majolica that holds liquids.
Jim, whenever the discussion revolves around making usable wares, that hold water, you always mention the grand piano thing. Is there a back story, or are you just going on the assumption, that everyone owns a grand piano.....I mean I do, but that's just because I'm well to do.....*Polishes monocle*
I think its a baby Grand with the bench made from splash pans.
Oh god, now Mark is a comedian!
That's how I ruined my grand piano. Had to buy another one. What does one do with two grand pianos. One has a horrible white spot on the varnish.
I figured you'd chime in on this! BTW, I don't know if you saw it in another thread but I apologized for being a bit curt with you over something you asked but I forget what it was now.
I asked what Lizella clay was. In the clay and glazes technical section. I went back and read your answer. Beleive it or not, I am not always on here. Apology accepted, but not required.
Posted 20 May 2013Nelley;
You are hitting the nail on the head with your technical search. This to me is what ceramics is all about. There are potters who make the same thing over and over. Then there are artists who are searching for that elusive something. Sometimes we plateau in our search, and sometimes we fail, but what keeps ME in the game is the pursuit of always improving my work and trying new things.
I have a pile of terra -cotta clay which I want to re-process this summer for Majolica, but my stoneware glazes are coming out so great at the moment, that I don't want to stop. So many choices!
Posted 20 May 2013Marcia makes a good point ... My traditional three section electric is very difficult to load at the bottom ... A wider shorter oval would be easier. A front loader is even sweeter but they sure cost a lot!
When I was teaching in Denver, I had a student loading an elec kiln and she was way too short to load the bottom and I didn't know she was doing it, but, long story short, she used a crate to stand on and it fell causing her to fall into the kiln which was bad enough breaking bricks at the top but then she panicked, thinking she would be electrocuted and really tore up the kiln getting out.
For some reason this makes me laugh. You can't make this stuff up, although I know you would be capable of this.
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- 59 years old
- July 13, 1953
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