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Posted 22 May 2013Some companies make long, wide kilns, so you can get large volume without height. Oval or rectangular kilns give you the option of having decent volume without height. My L&L DaVinci is a top loading, 20 cubic foot kiln. It uses three 14x28 inch shelves per row. It's a standard 3 ring, 27 inch deep kiln. With only two rings it would still have more interior volume than a 27x27 round kiln (Skutt 1227 or L&L E28T), but be much easier to load. Plus rectangles make for more efficient use of interior space than circles.
Posted 22 May 2013
Posted 22 May 2013A 23x27 inch kiln with 3 inch brick will put out about 14,000 BTU's per hour of heat into the room at cone 6. That's like leaving two average size stove burners on full blast. At cone 04, about 11,000 BTU/Hr.
True, but you have to also take into account the (supposed) air turnover rate in that space given the existing ventilation on the BTU / hr. accumuilation in the space? And also minus the heat pump efect of the AC unit in BTU/ hr.
Agreed. Just wanted to give people an idea of how much heat comes off a kiln.
Posted 22 May 2013Orrifice as given to me : .161 dia ( Via micrometer) According to chart (Ward) Approx. 181,000 btu.
I'm assuming powered is more efficient but not sure if that works into formula.
Not sure on kiln size yet, waiting to pick up more (free ) bricks, and furniture. Can we use 20 cu feet for discussion sake.
Ill need 320,000 to 400,000 btu per hour. For hard brick kiln, 20 cubic feet
Ward site states that power burners are designed to run on low pressures, 14"wc or 1/2 psi.
Also ill be using propane.
Neil, not sure what you're. Asking for when you mentioned pipe size.?
The size of the pipe delivering the gas. My gas kiln used about 800,000 btu's. A standar household gas line, 3/4 inch pipe, can't deliver deliver a large enough volume of gas to keep up with that, so I put in a 2" line.
14" WC, while low pressure, is double standard household pressure. If you plan on running natural gas, you'll have to have the pressure increased, which the gas company may or may not be willing to do at a home.
Posted 22 May 2013If you need to put the kiln in a shed, make sure it is weather tight. If it has a wood floor, put down two layers of cement tile backer board under the kiln that extends about a foot beyond the kiln. You need about 18" clearance from all flammable materials, like the walls of the shed. A shed is a very small space for a kiln. You'll need good ventilation of both fumes and heat. That may mean leaving the door open on nice days, but with bad weather that means vent fans in the wall or roof. I could see it getting up to 150 degrees inside with the shed closed up without venting. If the circuit board on the kiln controller gets too hot, it will shut down.
If you have any questions about L&L Kilns, feel free to contact me.
I've got a question about L&L Kilns!!!!
I was going to ask Jim, in another thread, as he is a fan of L&L, but I'll just ask here.
Why do L&L Kilns tend to be so tall/ deep? I'm not a tall individual, and have to stand on the corner of the kiln stand, to place shelves and projects.
At the first two districts I taught at, I used different Skutt models. I had to lean a little bit to load them, but could stay at ground level. Then I got to my current classroom, and there was an L&L, which I hadn't previously heard of. My first thought was, "Dang this thing is tall!"
Don't get me wrong, it's a good kiln, and fires well. It's just a pain in the butt to load, at times, especially when I have larger, heavier, awkward shaped works.
L&L kilns are the same dimensions as all other brands of kilns. 8 sided kilns are 17/18" wide, 10 sided kilns are 22/23" wide, 12 sided kilns are 27/28" wide. Each ring is 9" tall. It could be that the stand is a bit taller, or you've shrunk. The L&L stand is about 8" tall. Anyone got a Skutt they can measure?