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In the Studio (99 posts)
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  1. In Topic: Homemade Griffin Grip

    Posted 25 May 2013

    View Postsnowluck2345, on 24 May 2013 - 11:11 PM, said:

    I was just now looking at the griffin grips and would it be very difficult to make your own? It looks just like a few spirals, a top plate with some slots in it, and grabbers that slip into the bottom plate? Like I know I would have to think carefully about how they will attach, but I don't think it would be too hard to make?


    its a design that is basically a three jaw scroll chuck. If you have machine tools and a machinist background, its not super complicated... However, if you lack those two things, probably its cheaper for you to shell out the 200 bucks.
  2. In Topic: Throwing Comfy

    Posted 24 May 2013

    your back is going to hate the posture that your couch is forcing you into... Also, Brent wheels love to be setup on cinderblocks---theyre cheaper than booties, too ;)
  3. In Topic: your galleries

    Posted 24 May 2013

    View Postcelia12345678910, on 24 May 2013 - 09:56 AM, said:

    View Postfuoco di forno, on 24 May 2013 - 08:39 AM, said:

    You are right, one should post more pics in the gallery. Will do so when I'am back home, next week. May I ask you what's baked potatoe raku? Sounds interesting. Thanks

    Evelyne

    Thanks for your interest Evelyn. Baked Potatoe Raku is a form of Naked Raku (no glaze on the pots). It is similar to Saggar firing, but the saggar is aluminum foil wraped around pottery (hence baked potatoe) that has been painted with a very cautic acid, ferric chloride. (used as an etchant for pc boards). You can add combustibles also (like saggar firing techniques) that leave marks on your pots. For lots more information and many galleries of work by other artists check out the group Naked Raku in Yahoo groups.


    Just for pedantry, ferric is actually a corrosive salt.
  4. In Topic: Forced air burner plans?

    Posted 21 May 2013

    View PostBiglou13, on 21 May 2013 - 03:28 PM, said:

    View PostMarcia Selsor, on 21 May 2013 - 08:16 AM, said:

    I think red heat is when a kiln would ignite. ..but if the blower is running it may not ignite. I have used a round section of metal screwed over the air intake for reducing the air.

    Get the basso before you invest in a dimmer. It is more expensive but well worth it.
    Glad the blower is good.

    Marcia

    It came with rheostat/dimmer. I trying to figure out how to put together basso. I need hose and fitting,plumbing lesson.

    Also found a few different basso devices on Internet, which one do I need?


    depends on a few things, one of which being the pressure that is feeding your burner(s). More information here: http://www.wardburne...rmocouples.html
  5. In Topic: Forced air burner plans?

    Posted 21 May 2013

    View PostBiglou13, on 20 May 2013 - 08:19 PM, said:

    I went and played with it after posting. There was Missing bolt from blower to pipe, taped up gas orifice hole up, and got much better output... Then I realized..... Duh..... Dimmer dial........chances are i won't need 100cfm........ Especially. For smallish kiln.
    ( note to self don't test stuff when tired and late at night) ( so for most part disregard, in my best Gilda Radner voice......"never mind!"

    Next question

    What temperature do I need killn for gas to self ignite? What temp is red hot? ( yeah I'm trying figure options, before I drop coin for basso, and or other saftey parts)


    Don't "invest" in a "dimmer" switch--unless its rated to be used with a load like your blower will produce, you'll burn out a lamp dimmer switch quickly. See how your blower has an intake on the side? Use a flat fridge magnet to cover that, you can adjust how much of the intake is covered to adjust your air output to the burner--simpler and cheaper than a rheostat for the blower. Now take that money you saved, go drop the ~125.00 on a baso valve.

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Making objects

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