Natas Setiabudhi's Profile
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- Active Posts:
- 63(0.08 per day)
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- Clay and Glaze Technical (41 posts)
- 31-March 11
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- Last Active:
- May 11 2013 11:30 AM
Posts I've Made
Posted 14 Apr 2013Halo
I think the crackle not just depend on the glazes also the body. Usually the cracks on glazes surfaces come up when cooling (contraction) in the kiln. The cracking process still continue even the pot already out from the kiln. When the glazes and body have same rate in contraction, there are not cracking. on the contrary if the glazes more contract than body it will cracking. As alternative, there is a simple way. The body use high fired (Stoneware clay), meanwhile the glaze use low / middle fired (1000-1100 C). Both fired at low / middle fired (1000-1100 C). The result is the glazes surface will be crackle. Good luck:rolleyes:src="http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif">
Posted 4 Apr 2013The simplest way for making a high fired glaze just mix feldspar, whiting, and quartz. To make glossy you must add more quartz. But you must experiment to get appropriate amount. Because the substances in glaze have interaction each other. So not guarantee if added more quartz will be glossy, depend on amount other oxides.
For white color you can add zircon oxide 10-15%.
Posted 3 Apr 2013I don't know about your materials sources there in Indonesia, but here in the USA a number of the traditional sources of talc for ceramics were found to have significant trremoline asbestos contamination in them in the past few years. So be careful of this potential approach.
How far "down" do you want to take the firing cone?
Thanks for replying. I must check to the suplier for what you said. I wish it doesn't contain any harm subtances. Because I have been using talc for many years. And from related institutions do not announche the hazards of this material. Are there any substitutes material for talc which have same characteristic (for body)?
My formula body has vitrification point at 1230 celsius. I want to lower until 1200 celsius. Can I add whiting or anything else?
Posted 17 Jan 2013Hello,
Yap I'm quite sure that your second piece was overfired. I think your glaze is running, it could be there is zink oxide in your glaze, isn't there?
The running / melt away could be depend on the thickness of the glaze. More thicker more running away the glaze. But I think that failure could be interested..
Another cause the wares in position near the flame, usually on the edge of the shelves. You can make the bricks wall on that edge..
Thank you for the attentions..
Posted 8 Sep 2012Hi everyone
Thanks all for the attention. I have searched in google about "Steven Hill Glazing Raw Clay" and really helpful. I interested about his article in ceramics monthly.
If I apply the glazes to leather hard, don't you think make a thin layer? also if we treat different between dry pot and leather hard, we will get practice difficulties. Because I'm very forgetful, so the leather hard pot turn into dry pot, hahaha... May be it's just my personal problem.
How about flocculant agent ? Does it help (mix to the glazes)?
I just remembered, my friend once said, the glazes can be mixed with deflocculant agent (water glass), so the glaze liquid not damp to much to the dry pot, because the glazes become dry quickly. I don't know, Is it true what my friend said?
- Member Title:
- Advanced Member
- 39 years old
- August 6, 1973
- Bandung, Indonesia
- I really like slip casting technique. I think anything can be made by molding.