: Ben - Viewing Profile

BRL, on 30 April 2013 - 09:59 PM, said:

That's correct so long as you are compensating for the weight of the container. I do it this way. I have even made myself counterweights for my triple beam balance for the containers I use so I don't have to do any math.
Ben

I have always assumed they were made using press molds.

What clay body?
what firing type and temp?
Glazed or bare?

If you just want to get rid of the epsom salts from the mix you can let it settle, drain off some water (which will contain dissolved epsom salts) then add that same volume of fresh water back to the container. OR add a measured volume of water , let it settle out then drain off that same amount of water.
Repeating this process will lower the concentration of epsom salts.

NOW, be forewarned, if this glaze contains any ingredients that are soluble you will be washing these out too.

My favorite suspender for brushing is a CMC gum and bentonite mix in place of part of the water but I wonder if this glaze was not already intended for brushing and if so may contain it's own brushing additives.
Contact the manufacturer about that.

Ben

I'm guessing that you have enough insulation. If the metal skin is not glowing red while at 1200F you have good insulation. I'm going to propose that the burner isn't making enough btu OR the kiln can't get enough draft for proper combustion. Lots of info above on this topic.

You could possibly do a simple test to get an estimate on the burner BTU. use a metal container and a set volume of water and time how long it takes to get the burner to boil the water. Water takes a specific amount of btus to change temp so you could calculate the heat needed to raise from your starting water temp up to start of boiling. Of course there will be a certain percentage of heat lost to air around the pot but this test will give some kind of estimate about the burner btus.
Ben