Karen B's Profile
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- 11-September 10
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Posts I've Made
Posted 28 Apr 2013Peter Pugger = good marketing.
Posted 23 Apr 2013After 30+ years of potting, I inherited a few thousand.
- I bought a Bailey slab roller and a Shimpo pug mill.
- I pug the clay and cut it when it is the length of the slab rollers width.
- Place the long clay on the slab roller and pat down the side and roll.
- So much faster than doing by hand.
Random info: Had to hire a big guy to lift the pugmill onto my table as it's so heavy, even in pieces.
Posted 28 Mar 2013I have a single car attached garage which is my studio, with family room above.
I use envirovent with metal dryer vent to the outside.
I have a regular side door and single window which I keep wide open when firing,
even in winter as it gets too hot and sets off my heat sensor alarm (which is the type
of "smoke" alarm standard for garages).
My clay and other things wrapped in plastic do not
dry out, but anything left out will.
I fire over night so I can be there in the am to check
the shut off and enter in my cool down program.
It is only too hot to work near the end of the firing, but no detectable fumes.
Had to fire once without vent, and even with everything opened,
it was very fumy. Even then, no detectable fumes in room above. Good ceiling insulation.
BTW, it is really great having the cement floor for drying flat things, easy washing,
and the garage door for getting large deliveries or packing up the back of the car!
I got a permit from my town to have the business, and they had no concerns about
the kiln. Insurance concerns already covered by others here.
Posted 28 Mar 2013How do I make colored slip for use in a slip trailer? I'm working with stoneware to be fired to cone 5. I want to apply it to my greenware while still wet on the wheel. I'd like it not to drip while spiraling down my pot while on the wheel. I assume that I dip in clear (or colored glaze) after it has been bisqued. I would buy flocculant/deflocculant if this makes it any easier for me. Also... is there a simple way to make this slip also a "raised slip" if I want for other decorating purposes? Thanks in advance for any help/words of wisdom!!
I have gone to great lengths to make slip using Robin Hopper's recipe. People in my old studio laughed that I was taking dry ingredients and making slip in this manner. It was, however, great slip and stuck to everything. I think if you google his slip recipe you should be able to find it on-line or at the very least in one of his books.
Now however, what I do is take some of either my reclaimed clay or cut off slices of the clay body I am using, dry it throughly, put it in a bucket with some water and let it slake. You don't want to add too much water but just enough to really cover the dried slices. After a few days of slaking, I then take a hand held mixer or you could use a blender and simply mix it up to the consistency I want. I try to really make sure if I am adding Mason stains that I mix these really well so no spots or speckles come through in the initial bisque firing. This is quick and easy and serves all my purposes. I store the slip and simply use it as required. For example, I will take some out of the storage container, mix it up again well and add my unique colorants bit by bit as needed. Works great for me. I am sure it would work equally well in a slip trailer but you may need to water it down to the right consistency. Not so watery that it runs but not so thick that it clogs the end of your bulb or bottle.
Good luck. I love working with slips.
If using clay other than porcelain for this process, I would recommend screening your slip after slaking and before adding Mason stains. This way you will filter out the grog in the clay and have a nice smooth slip to match your clay body.
Posted 22 Mar 2013you mean something like this?
I found this on Google Images. Looks like a homemade device and fairly simple to make on your own. Not sure how flat your slabs will stay if you remove them like in the pic since clay has memory.
Another, simpler, option might be to put two slab rolling sticks down on the sides of your clay, then just slice with a wire across the top of the sticks. This way you get your even thickness, and have the option to move the clay block to another surface so you don't disturb your cut piece = less warping
In my experience, it is only porcelain that has memory. If stoneware is lifted like this and not bent, then laid down carefully, it will be fine.
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