: ~janie - Viewing Profile

Organizing my studio is an ongoing thing for me.

I have many jars of glaze, and many sizes of jars, and, I also mix glazes and have 2 gal. and 5 gallon buckets of my favorites. So you can probably imagine that I was not the least bit organized. I try to be, but I had glazes in this corner, on that wall, everywhere!

I emptied out a shelf unit that I had been storing things seldom used, and designated that end of my studio as the glazing area. I organized my jars of glaze according to brand and type, and I have included all my tools associated with glazing in this area too. My drill and mixers, a hand-held juicer, and large whisks hang on the wall, for example, ready to be used.

I have two work tables in this area. One is an old library table, stuck in a corner with buckets of glaze on wheels underneath, and a shelf atop that table, secured to the wall behind it. I keep paperwork on those shelves. Not bookkeeping paperwork, but patterns, books, transfer paper- supplies, in other words. Buckets of glaze go under that worktable.

The other table is used in a similar manner. Brushes, sponges, and a wax skillet are kept on this table, and a shelf on wheels in underneath. I keep things like clean towels, cotton cloths, masking tape, foam plates, and small pieces of foam in bins on the shelves.

Both tables have Shimpo turntables. These are my most prized possessions- do not know how I worked without them. They are different sizes, the tallest one, and the shortest one. I plan to purchase the one with the widest table, and I will be done buying Shimpo turntables.

I am still in the process of building shelves for my chemicals. I keep what I buy in large amounts in those tall plastic keepers for birdseed. I bought them at Lowes, about $13.00 each. They have worked out perfectly. I have 6 plastic units that have 2 drawers each, and Bobby built a shelf unit for them to keep my chemicals that are bought in smaller amounts. Stains also go in these drawers.

Once I get this bit of construction done, I think I will be pretty much organized. I have an area for throwing and keeping clay, an area for hand building, a damp closet, and an area to glaze. It is pretty tight, every inch of space is valuable, but I know how fortunate I am.

When Bobby gets his new shop built, he will empty this shop of his belongings, and I will have a much larger area for my studio- about 3 times the space. We have the kilns out there, and my pug mill and slab roller. We are going to build a station for Bobby to pour the mold he makes. There is always something more to do. My organizing is not nearly finished.

Nancy S., on 16 January 2013 - 11:00 AM, said:

He just runs them through the table saw, have not found the need to sand anything. Then we drill the holes and we are done. No sealing. I am sure there are other products, but honestly, for us, this has been the solution. If you don't soak them in a sink full of water, and use reasonable care, they last for a very long time. I have not had any problems with them, nor have I had any warp, and we have been using these for 2 years. Do be sure it is double sided Masonite, the single smooth sided Masonite will not last.

My husband cuts my bats from double sided masonite, $17.00 for a 4'x8' sheet. He cuts them into 10" squares, and drills holes in two corners. Only very large bats are cut in circles. The drops make great little ware boards. We get at least 36 bats from a sheet, with lots of little ware boards, and they last a long time. I prefer the square bats as they don't take up so much room on my shelves, if I need to leave things on the bat.

I keep a coffee pot in the studio, and keep a pot of coffee available at all times. Also, I have a tv in the studio, with a DVD player, and I either watch/listen to the news or watch/listen to a DVD. I know I could probably get a lot more done with no TV, but it is company for me.

When I was in school, we were taught we could open the kiln at 400 degrees. Prop it open, that is. Then when it got down to 300 degrees, we could open the lid fully and unload as soon as we could handle the pots without getting burned, or setting the place on fire.

Since then I have read a lot about firing my kiln, and I have always been horrified at the sound of the crazing pings, and that is not something I usually am trying to do, so I leave it alone. I pull a plug at 350 or so, but usually let it get down to 150 or so before I prop the lid open a little. When I can touch the lid after that, and it doesn't feel hot, I open it all the way, and can unload then. I (knocking on wood, here) have never had anything break or explode in the kiln- YET, that is-, and I don't look forward to that.

I appreciate all the info here. It is a great help to me.