mregecko - Viewing Profile

mregecko's Profile User Rating:

Reputation: 3 Neutral

Group:: Members
Active Posts:: 46(0.21 per day)
Most Active In:: Clay and Glaze Technical (21 posts)
Joined:: 14-November 12
Profile Views:: 2,014
Last Active:: Yesterday, 06:29 PM
Currently:: Offline

mregecko has not set their status

Posts I've Made

In Topic: mason stains aren't steadfast, whats missing?

Posted 29 May 2013

Pretty much already covered, but just going to agree.

Mason stains are usually just colorants. Painting them onto the surface of unglazed clay, especially low fire (e.g. more porous) clay, means that they have nothing to "adhere" them to the clay body. They're essentially just dust on top of the clay and a lot of them will wash off.

You would either need to mix a frit with them (as mentioned, I think 3110 is good around this temperature range) which will flux them to the clay body...

Or -- what I would do -- buy a pre-mixed underglaze that is specced for your temperature range. They come with fluxes already in them and are formulated for staying power and vibrancy.

Hope some of this has helped!
In Topic: Will this work?

Posted 29 May 2013

kheicksen, on 29 May 2013 - 08:47 AM, said:
Thanks - I washed it off. I might experiment with this later with some protective measures taken. One would think that because the low fire clay melts at higher temps it might become glaze like... . .

Don't forget that the slip is still clay. If you apply it to a bisqued piece, that bisque has already gone through a lot of its firing cycle.

The slip hasn't had its molecular water released yet, hasn't had its organics burned off yet, and hasn't shrunk yet.

More likely than not it'll outgass (probably through any glazes over it) and most likely crack or shiver (depending on the different expansion coefficients).

It's possible, with specifically formulated slips, but it's pretty tricky. Especially if you're glazing over it.
In Topic: Glaze percentages

Posted 17 May 2013

Alina Albu, on 17 May 2013 - 01:42 PM, said:
Hi mregecko

Oxide.

I am not familiar with cones, I fire at 1255ºC with a 20 min soak and it works beautifully for me. Tried the glazesimulator, don't agree with above cone ten - is there anything above cone ten?! This is a glaze that has been used by other potters I know for this range of temp.

Sometimes these things are too clever for their own good.(:-)

Have a great weekend!

1255 is a mid fire, around cone 6-ish (Depending on what cone system you use, ramp, soak, etc).

And the glaze simulator isn't infallible, I'm sure there are better ones out there! Just a quick check :-)

Glad you got the answers you needed!

-- M

PS: Yes, there are definitely cones over 10. They're usually reached with fuel-kilns instead of electric.
In Topic: Glaze percentages

Posted 17 May 2013

Also worth asking... Cobalt Oxide or Cobalt Carbonate? One has approximately double the actual cobalt basic oxide of the other, so will affect the intensity of the blue you get.

An online glaze simulator tells me this is a pretty high-fire glaze (http://www.glazesimulator.com/recWizard.php).... Just curious, what are you firing this at?
In Topic: Wheel Head

Posted 17 May 2013

Throw a thin pad of clay (maybe quarter inch) on your wheel head. Doesn't have to be perfectly circular, just level.

Score it and attach your bats to that by centering and tapping down.

It gets rid of your wobbly wheel head and your bat problem. Many potters ONLY use bats this way.