Reputation: 10 Good
Posts I've Made
Posted 19 Jun 2013Personally, I never understood why bother with wax for keeping the glaze off from the bottom.
How many seconds it takes you to wipe off the glaze from the bottom of a vessel with a firm moist sponge?
Problem with most waxes is that if this stuff gets anywhere else on your piece, you need to bisque fire it again.
Peel off stuff will mess up your brush and stink really bad. Just not worth the money nor the effort.
Keep your kiln shelves coated with kiln wash and use clean moist sponge to wipe off the glaze in seconds
BTW. Some pots, with lids, got glazed few days ago. All I used was watery mix of kiln wash between the lid and the pot. looks like it worked fine.
Glazed the lids and pots, wiped the edges clean with a clean sponge (keep the sponge clean!), added few brush strokes of watered down kiln wash and that was it.
I do agree with you, regarding the bottoms of projects, to an extent. I really depends on the clay body. For my first several years teaching, I used a low fire clay. Wiping those clean, wasn't too bad. But when I started at my new district, I used a stoneware. Wiping the glaze off of those, tore the sponges up something terrible. Using wax, was a much better option, considering I would have gone through quite a few sponges, with all the students wiping things off.
Dripping the wax was always a concern, and one I warned the students about. I also warned them about not getting it on their clothes either. Latex resist avoids the issue, of unwanted drips, since you can just peel it off.
Posted 19 Jun 2013[quote name='Pugaboo' date='19 June 2013 - 07:17 AM' timestamp='1371644253' post='37336']
I used a porcupine quill on this one. Cone 5 dark clay with porcelain slip on top. blue slip brushed on.
Cheese hard is the way to go.
That's amazing thank you for posting it. Where do you get porcupine quills? Do you actually scratch into the clay with the color on the quill or do you scratch the lines with the quill then apply the color afterwards? The later is what I've been doing using various clay tools including the standard sgraffito. Its a bit time consuming doing everything twice.
Or do you paint the blue slip on let it dry apply the white on top let it dry then scratch through both layers to reveal the different shadings?
I like to believe the Marcia chased down, and tackled porcupine to obtain the quill. That's not what she'll say happened, but that's what I'd tell people.
With sgrafitto, the color is applied first, then carved through, revealing the color of the clay. If you colored the portions afterwards, it would just be standard coloring.
Posted 19 Jun 2013Most young children have a short attention span so you will probably won't have her for more than a hour at a time. She will probably like wearing a light weight dust mast and gloves, what projects you make depends on how old she is. My son I started him with snakes around 3 and then dinosaurs at 5, I got a 4X4 piece of plywood and made a dinosaurs island with a volcano in the middle, this took quite of while to finish. When he was eight we made rock fossils, pressed out the clay into a slab and scratched the fossil design in it and then use oxides to color and age it. A little girl might want to make pendant and charms or maybe a tea set, I was a tomboy dinosaurs would have been my choice. I taught my son some throwing when he was 14 but them he lost interest in it, he was playing in a band. Denice
Nice, I'll try some of those suggestions.
Playing in a band?!!! Why can't people realize, how much better the visual arts are, rather than the performing arts?!!!......I joke, but I do constantly tell my students, who are also in band and/ or choir that, just to mess with them......I also tell the band and choir instructors that as well.
What's funny is, I got to college, and I swear, I was one of the few in the Art Department, that wasn't in a band or at least play and instrument.
Posted 18 Jun 2013So with the end of the school year, I've got more time to get my studio set up.
I bought some lumber today, to create a work bench/ wedging table top. Luckily, one of the homes previous owners, was into woodworking. So he had a nice wood shop set up in the basement. He had a workbench there, but REALLY like the top, so he took it with him, for the wood shop in his new house. So I've got the frame, but no top. I have several 5X1.5" pieces. I plan to laminate them together, than anchor them to the frame. As the lumber has rounded edges, I plan to square them off with a planer, so the edges match up better (time to call in a favor to the school industrial tech teacher).
My question is, should I use any type of treatment on the surface of the wood? My guess is no, as I'm sure I'll want the wood to absorb some of the moisture out of my clay, but maybe there's something I'm not thinking about.
Also, I eventually want to use an epoxy coating on the floor, the type you use in garages and such. The floor is already concrete, but it's pretty rough and somewhat pitted, because it is nearly one hundred years old. It actually used to be the coal storage room, for the house's furnace. In fact, the coal chute door is still there, on the exterior of the house. So, like I said, it's a little beat, and has a lot of spots that would hold onto clay dust.
Once again, is there any reason, I wouldn't want to use said product?
Posted 18 Jun 2013Thanks for posting the pictures. That inner blue color, compliments the outer colors nicely.
- Member Title:
- Advanced Member
- Age Unknown
- Birthday Unknown