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  1. In Topic: First Kiln Advice

    Posted 22 May 2013

    View Postneilestrick, on 22 May 2013 - 09:29 AM, said:

    View PostBenzine, on 22 May 2013 - 07:21 AM, said:

    View Postneilestrick, on 21 May 2013 - 08:10 PM, said:

    If you need to put the kiln in a shed, make sure it is weather tight. If it has a wood floor, put down two layers of cement tile backer board under the kiln that extends about a foot beyond the kiln. You need about 18" clearance from all flammable materials, like the walls of the shed. A shed is a very small space for a kiln. You'll need good ventilation of both fumes and heat. That may mean leaving the door open on nice days, but with bad weather that means vent fans in the wall or roof. I could see it getting up to 150 degrees inside with the shed closed up without venting. If the circuit board on the kiln controller gets too hot, it will shut down.

    If you have any questions about L&L Kilns, feel free to contact me.


    I've got a question about L&L Kilns!!!!

    I was going to ask Jim, in another thread, as he is a fan of L&L, but I'll just ask here.

    Why do L&L Kilns tend to be so tall/ deep? I'm not a tall individual, and have to stand on the corner of the kiln stand, to place shelves and projects.

    At the first two districts I taught at, I used different Skutt models. I had to lean a little bit to load them, but could stay at ground level. Then I got to my current classroom, and there was an L&L, which I hadn't previously heard of. My first thought was, "Dang this thing is tall!"

    Don't get me wrong, it's a good kiln, and fires well. It's just a pain in the butt to load, at times, especially when I have larger, heavier, awkward shaped works.


    L&L kilns are the same dimensions as all other brands of kilns. 8 sided kilns are 17/18" wide, 10 sided kilns are 22/23" wide, 12 sided kilns are 27/28" wide. Each ring is 9" tall. It could be that the stand is a bit taller, or you've shrunk. The L&L stand is about 8" tall. Anyone got a Skutt they can measure?


    I actually do have a Skutt at home I could measure. It must just be the stand. I don't think I'm shrinking........yet.
  2. In Topic: What aspect of clay work gives you the most pleasure?|May 21, 2013

    Posted 22 May 2013

    Doing the smoothing/ finishing on my leatherhard pieces. I love the leatherhard stage. Everything looks smooth and flowing. It's almost a shame to fire it.
  3. In Topic: First Kiln Advice

    Posted 22 May 2013

    View PostOffCenter, on 22 May 2013 - 08:45 AM, said:

    View Postneilestrick, on 21 May 2013 - 09:10 PM, said:

    If you need to put the kiln in a shed, make sure it is weather tight. If it has a wood floor, put down two layers of cement tile backer board under the kiln that extends about a foot beyond the kiln. You need about 18" clearance from all flammable materials, like the walls of the shed. A shed is a very small space for a kiln. You'll need good ventilation of both fumes and heat. That may mean leaving the door open on nice days, but with bad weather that means vent fans in the wall or roof. I could see it getting up to 150 degrees inside with the shed closed up without venting. If the circuit board on the kiln controller gets too hot, it will shut down.

    If you have any questions about L&L Kilns, feel free to contact me.


    This is not the kind of shed I was suggesting in my earlier post. My shed is big enough for 4 kilns plus lots of shelves and when the tarps are rolled up it is completely open so that it is like firing outside. If you can build such a shed it is the prefect way to fire. Obviously, you have to be careful not to let kilns get wet or too much dampness during rain. Mine have been in such a shed in humid Georgia for 5 or so years now with no computer or other problems yet.

    Jim


    Jim, how cool does it get there in the winters? My nephew lives a little outside of Atlanta, and I know they freak out, when the get a bit of snow, so I'm guessing not terribly cold. From what I understand, it's the heat and humidity of the summers, that are terrible.

    What do you have for a floor in your shed?
  4. In Topic: Questions about using wax resist

    Posted 22 May 2013

    View PostIforgot, on 22 May 2013 - 08:15 AM, said:

    The turpentine is not necessary. Beeswax, paraffin, beeswax + paraffin it all works. wax in the kiln will not cause adverse effects on non- waxed pots. The reason for this is that wax completely burns out at around 800 degrees, before the glaze begins to develop at all. However, too much wax resist fired in an electric kiln is very bad for the kiln, but unless you are dipping and filling every pot with wax resist you don't have to worry about anything. Also, you do not need to scrape the wax off.



    Good Luck!

    Darrel


    Isn't there some debate, over whether or not, the burnt off wax, effects the elements at all?
  5. In Topic: First Kiln Advice

    Posted 22 May 2013

    View Postneilestrick, on 21 May 2013 - 08:10 PM, said:

    If you need to put the kiln in a shed, make sure it is weather tight. If it has a wood floor, put down two layers of cement tile backer board under the kiln that extends about a foot beyond the kiln. You need about 18" clearance from all flammable materials, like the walls of the shed. A shed is a very small space for a kiln. You'll need good ventilation of both fumes and heat. That may mean leaving the door open on nice days, but with bad weather that means vent fans in the wall or roof. I could see it getting up to 150 degrees inside with the shed closed up without venting. If the circuit board on the kiln controller gets too hot, it will shut down.

    If you have any questions about L&L Kilns, feel free to contact me.


    I've got a question about L&L Kilns!!!!

    I was going to ask Jim, in another thread, as he is a fan of L&L, but I'll just ask here.

    Why do L&L Kilns tend to be so tall/ deep? I'm not a tall individual, and have to stand on the corner of the kiln stand, to place shelves and projects.

    At the first two districts I taught at, I used different Skutt models. I had to lean a little bit to load them, but could stay at ground level. Then I got to my current classroom, and there was an L&L, which I hadn't previously heard of. My first thought was, "Dang this thing is tall!"

    Don't get me wrong, it's a good kiln, and fires well. It's just a pain in the butt to load, at times, especially when I have larger, heavier, awkward shaped works.

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    TJR Icon

    10 Jan 2013 - 10:28
    Benzine;
    I'm going to put you in as my friend, since we have so much in common as to high school arts education. Tom Roberts, high school art teacher.
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