: Nancy S. - Viewing Profile

I've noticed the same pinholing issue when brushing on commercial glazes (not sure if they contain spudomene or not) -- after the glaze is dry, I lightly rub a dry finger over the pinholed areas until they're smooth and they fire just fine, as if the pinholes were never there.

I thought it might be a "too vigorous stirring" issue, too -- thankfully, it's an easy fix. Well, relatively easy...in corners it's harder to reach those spots, or the areas right next to sliptrailing. The pinhole-bubbles I've left do NOT smooth over in the firing, unfortunately.

I found a makeup smudging tool that works well for getting in areas that are smaller than my fingertip. Q-tips also work; just watch that the cotton doesn't stay on the piece.

I think it's just an absorption issue - the clay sucks up the moisture too fast in some areas, causing the pinholing. Lightly sponging bisque ware helps a little, but it depends on the piece.

Pres, on 12 May 2013 - 04:36 PM, said:

Ohh, yes. I *always* looked forward to the "pottery" segment of my grade school art classes, got started in earnest in 1994-95, but couldn't do it from 96-2004 (no room, no money, nowhere else to go). All those years and I couldn't shake it...

Along with the apron idea, what about towels? Teatowels/hand towels/golf towels are small and can be embroidered if you wish - and who can't use an extra towel around the studio?

(Now that it's already May...where did April go??)

John, I'm very sorry for your loss. My condolences to you and your family.

Chris Campbell, on 26 April 2013 - 05:43 PM, said:

I don't have any experience with Mason Stains, but I have used Amaco's zinc-free clear (HF-9) - on white ^6 clay it's slightly off-white (kind of "antique-y" looking).

I'd love a ^6 clear that lets the whiteness of the clay come through, but I'm not sure I'm ready to make my own glazes yet. :/