: weeble - Viewing Profile

Or just CAREFULLY wipe the surface with a damp sponge when its bone dry, if your clay has any sand or grog in it, you'll remove a layer of the finest particles and leave just the groggy stuff! This takes a delicate hand, you don't want to wet the piece, just remove the surface layer. Look up 'water etching' for more info.

I did some funkiness using a crawl glaze by firing the crawl glaze, then going back with a contrasting glaze and wiping it off the crawled bits and firing a second time. Pain to get the second glaze to stick, but oh FUN results! Thanks for the memories, might have to do that again!

AHHh, check out the third picture in 'drying' and the last 3 picture in 'shaping.' It certainly looks like they're using the disks like barrel ends, then the tall skinny pieces are the barrel staves but with spaces in between. The layer of rope is wound around, clay slathered on, then the 'calibre' knocks off the excess. The center disk is removed, the stave pieces are pulled inward, leaving the rope stuck to the inside of the pot. Pull the rope out, smooth, and let it dry! Rope only needs to be one layer thick, solid up the sides. You could use something like a fabric bag or sack too, anything flexible enough to be removed once the inside support is removed.

Your glass kiln is optimized for a lower temperature, which means the elements (and other bits and bobs in the kiln!) are probably thinner and will probably burn out pretty quickly firing higher than recommended. You could fire clay at that temperature, but unless you find a body formulated to mature at that temperature, your clay will be underfired. You're talking somewhere around cone 08 or 07, depending on how fast you fire and soak time. Depending on what you want to do, that might work for you, but probably best for decorative work. It probably won't be vitrified. Porcelain is generally a high fire clay requiring temperatures well above what you can do with that kiln, the mid-range porcelain I've used is designed for cone 5, which is somewhere around 2100-2200, so really, no chance porcelain will be a good choice for you.

If you really want to do functional work in clay, see if you can find a group in your area that has a kiln and will fire work for you. I work with a group at the local art center, you might find one checking with the area colleges or art groups.

Mayco Stroke and Coat Hot Tamale is a nice red without breaking the bank, its a tiny bit more toward the purple side than the orange side, but still RED, its our go-to red at the studio. Just not a huge number of choices out there for red at cone 5-6