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- 20-June 12
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- Dec 29 2012 11:19 PM
Topics I've Started
Posted 20 Sep 2012Does anyone know whether b-mix (cone 5) works for raku? It seems
pretty open and porous when I bisque it to cone 06.
Posted 10 Sep 2012Hi, all,
I saw this listing for 2'x2'x5/16" Advancer Shelves on ebay. Not that
I need 50 shelves, lol, but was wondering whether these sound authentic -
the listing mentions that some of these are thinner than 5/16" esp
at the corners due to wear. Do they actually noticeably wear? Aren't
they different molecularly on the inside than the outside? And these
shelves have kiln wash on them... I thought that advancers didn't need
kiln wash since they were so dense that glaze wouldn't soak into them
What do you all think? These sound like a great deal if they are for
Posted 2 Sep 2012Hi, all,
Does anyone happen to know a recipe for a cone 10 glaze called Maia's Porcelain?
I came across it 20 years ago as a studio glaze in an old notebook at UCSD's Craft Center
in the late 1980s. It was very reliable though slightly runny and had beautiful light blue to
pink streaks on a glossy white background in light reduction (on porcelain or whitestoneware).
I unfortunately recall nothing helpful about the recipe because I was a complete
newbie at the time. They no longer have a record of that recipe when I called and asked.
Thanks for any help or tips. (Mark C. I know you could probably whip one up
in a couple of minutes with your eyes closed, if only I could give a more precise
Posted 19 Aug 2012Hello, oh knowledgable potter people,
I've seen pictures of kilns built over a layer of regular cinderblocks, but
I'd also heard that regular cement loses compression strength when exposed
to high temperatures (anywhere from 300 to 1000 degrees F).
Does anyone think (or know whether) a kiln floor made of a single layer of hard
fire brick laid down so it's only 2-1/2 inches thick would get hot enough to
damage the cinder blocks when used for firings to cone 10-12 and then allowed to
cool slowly (12 hours or more)? Would it make a difference and be preferable to have a
thicker layer of hard brick?
Thanks for any input on this!
Posted 12 Aug 2012Hi, Everyone!
Does anyone have experience in using Macabee White (from Clay Planet).
It's listed as a cone 10 clay that is good for wood fire. I'm curious as
to what people might think about any aspect of it - throwability, wet strength
for large or medium forms, fired strength, flashing, survival while firing to
say, cone 11... or 13 or 14 :-).
Feel free to compare to any other clays you might have
used for wood fire. (Or soda)
Thanks in advance for any input you might give!
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