: LilyT - Viewing Profile

Several of the Amaco PC glazes have crawled when I used them. The coatings need to be
thick, and I can see that you are getting the float effect so yours is thick. I think that the
nice thin pieces like yours need extra time to let the first coat(s) dry before applying the
subsequent coat(s), otherwise the first coat isn't firmed up yet, and the rehydrating action
of the new coat might cause it to loosen from the pot... though not necessarily visibly.

HAve you tried using it again? It's a nice glaze.

Thank you, Cass.

That is very eye opening. And your display is absolutely gorgeous. Pots, too, of course.

Also thank you for the details about what else you need to consider, and how to find the parts.

Actually, your idea can be generalized to everything else in life, too.

Warmly,
LilyT

Red Rocks, I am interested in what you find out, too! I have gotten
advice that the ITC100 does in fact extend the life of refractories, and
am planning to use it on all [non SiC] faces that are exposed to heat in my
atmospheric kiln. The kiln roof will be cordierite shelves, coated
with ITC.

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and information!

-Lily

Nancy, I found that I did not make rapid progress in throwing until I practiced hard. And by this, I mean sitting down and making 20 or 30 at a time. Or more. For several days.

You could also start out with your clay slightly softer, so you can develop the shaping skill independent of the strength. (poke holes into the clay with a long screwdriver and pour in a 1/4 cup of water, leave the bag closed a day or so, and then wedge it up.


With mug/cup shapes, why don't you try throwing off the hump while practicing pulling cylinders evenly? You only need to center the top pound or so for your mug. This lets you efficiently work on the part you want to practice without wasting a lot of time setting up (wedge center cutoff clean) between takes. Do this for half a day at a time for a few days and you'll find you work more comfortably and fluid, and maybe also find your style.

As for handles, one simple approach I've seen as an alternative to pulling is to use a needle tool to cut off the top inch or so (and repeat throughout the entire cylinder if you're just making handles). You can lay them out and warm them up with a torch or under a plastic sheet in the sun, and they can be ready for you at the end of your throwing session.

And as for your comment about centering large amounts, perhaps my experience here may be helpful to you also... I am a small woman and it turns out I have very little upper body strength, even compared to other women (zero pullups, zero pushups, etc.) I found that when I did some strength training to make my upper body and hands stronger, clay became amazingly easier. I worked on pushups starting on the stairs, pullups (pulldowns if you have a machine), and deadlifts (yes, it's for legs, but it increased my grip strength, and for *my* back it was helpful). I imagine that any exercise where you gradually increase the sheer weight that you can grasp and sling around will help.

And my last tips for centering large amounts are: 1. set the wheel speed slower, and 2. the very base where the widest area of the clay touches the wheelhead at the 'skirt' is the hardest part to control, so either use your sponge there, or just cut it off while you're learning how to do it. You'll get there eventually, but it's another strength thing.

Hope this helps!

warmly,
Lily

Wendey, on 20 September 2012 - 09:53 AM, said:

Hi, Wendey,
Do you use water in your raku reduction?
-LilyT