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Most Active In:: Clay and Glaze Technical (28 posts)
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Last Active:: May 13 2013 03:16 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Wood fire clay body?

Posted 7 May 2013

Biglou13, on 03 May 2013 - 11:02 PM, said:
To those that wood fire, do you formulate, or tweak commercial, or use commercial clay, out of box? I've read than john B. does.

I get great results with almost all of the Sheffield cone 10 stoneware bodies;
"Wood Light" is like the T3 but has Helmer :
42 is the nice dark Lizella body:
There are also a few white stonewares that flash like crazy 95400 /20231 and Ben's Mix;
"Z' is a Zamek designed body that can be very nice and rich

They are worth trying for sure.

http://www.sheffield...-CLAY-s/422.htm
In Topic: Cone offset

Posted 3 May 2013

neilestrick, on 03 May 2013 - 02:51 PM, said:
timbo_heff, on 03 May 2013 - 12:43 PM, said:
I thought that the offset is to compensate for the different power ones' electric company delivers: if you are on 240 service the power company can legally deliver + or - 10% so if you have poor power or good power you can calibrate the controller to knock down the right cone at the given program.

Nope. The cone and thermocouple offsets are to compensate for the inaccuracy of the thermocouples. If your power is high or low 10% it doesn't matter. The kiln is trying to ramp at a certain rate. If the power is high, the elements will run a little hot, and the computer will simply have to power them up for less time to get the desired rate of climb. If the power is low, it will power them up longer to compensate. Of course, if the power is too low it won't bea able to heat like ti wants to and will give you and error code.

That makes sense. Of course if it's running hot it still up the the thermo and the controller to make the call regardless of the relative temp of the elements. I should have intuited that... long week... ugg!
In Topic: Cone offset

Posted 3 May 2013

I thought that the offset is to compensate for the different power ones' electric company delivers: if you are on 240 service the power company can legally deliver + or - 10% so if you have poor power or good power you can calibrate the controller to knock down the right cone at the given program.
In Topic: Controlling Shrinkage in Casting Slip

Posted 24 Apr 2013

bigDave, on 24 April 2013 - 10:23 AM, said:
Biglou13, on 23 April 2013 - 02:49 PM, said:
Can you post pictures of "shivering". Please

off topic but I cant help but ask,

Why one would want to mix casting slip when it can be bought so cheaply and easily.

I have uses tons of laguna clay co. slip comes dry, 50 pound sacks, at about 25 cents a pound. So easy, its all in there

10 years using and always exactly the same, perfect glaze fit, etc

just cant imagine messing with ingredients and blending etc...

okay carry on,

good luck
big D

Hey BigD. I work at a place like laguna and we are vexed because this formula works for some and not others
I agree.. I would never make the stuff myself... nor will I ever make my own clay !
In Topic: Controlling Shrinkage in Casting Slip

Posted 23 Apr 2013

neilestrick, on 23 April 2013 - 11:37 AM, said:
I'd start with a real shrinkage test. Then we can go from there. 500C isn't even 1000F. You've gotta be fiirng hotter than that.

C&C is my favorite ball clay. It's wonderful stuff- more plastic and way more consistent than OM4. It's a blend of Champion and Challenger clays, from H.C. Spinks.

That test was done by Gare; not sure why sooo low temp: but maybe some relative info will be informative:
From the same test: Standard slip – 9.11 and Miller NS1 slip – 7.8.

I am seeing online that a lot of folks use 50% talc in low fare casting slip: maybe that is the ticket?