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- 13-February 12
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Posted 12 May 2013so much out there is beautiful, whose work would you like to claim as your own? not their lifestyle just the pot or pots. anything goes.
mine would, hands down, be tom coleman.
Thank you for sharing his name. I love to look at other's work, and this is really interesting.
Posted 15 Mar 2013
Posted 15 Mar 2013Yep, you can still find pretty much anything Robert Shaw ever made, especially infinite switches. Sometimes the part numbers have been changed, but the replacement numbers are usually listed.
In your experience, is it better to replace all electrical parts on older kilns when you do a repair?
Posted 14 Mar 2013Do you mean an interbox plug, where the two sections plug into each other, or a power switch (low/med/high) in the top ring, or a relay?
Thank you for answering. I was told Sears sold these kilns long ago. The part number is labeled Robert Shaw Controls Co. INF-240-31B, 15A-240 volt. My husband said it was on the top power switch. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Posted 22 Feb 2013My slab roller has dual rollers. I prefer that to shims. and I do rotate the slabs. My roller is 30" wide. I have boards that I slide under the slabd to flip them and remove them from the table. My raku slabs fired on edge stay flat.
I recently purchased a 24" tabletop NorthStar slab roller. The instruction I received at my local studio has a huge roller that rolls over boards that control the depth of the slab. My roller does roll the clay between two rollers. Please describe steps to exactly how you roll your slabs. How important is the flipping, rotating, ribbing, etc. I usually seem to have a slight warp in slab built work. How thick are the slabs you use? Would that also work in an electric kiln? Thank you kindly for sharing your knowledge.
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