Anyone Use Amaco Potters Choice Saturation Metallic Or Gold?
#21
Posted 28 February 2011 - 04:33 PM
#22
Posted 28 February 2011 - 05:38 PM
missholly, on 15 February 2011 - 12:09 PM, said:
im assuming these are overglazes? so would i apply to bisque and fire to the cone of my clay? (^6)
can i apply to greenware and once fire to ^6?
I have used saturation gold and have gotten various results. Usually a dark color fired to cone 6. Then one day I had about a half bottle left and used that... It came out beautiful ... A dark colored gold. I did in the past stir it well. But I think this needs more bottom stirring than usual. I will use it again but will store it upside down.
#23
Posted 28 February 2011 - 07:35 PM
Conniefi, on 28 February 2011 - 05:38 PM, said:
missholly, on 15 February 2011 - 12:09 PM, said:
im assuming these are overglazes? so would i apply to bisque and fire to the cone of my clay? (^6)
can i apply to greenware and once fire to ^6?
I have used saturation gold and have gotten various results. Usually a dark color fired to cone 6. Then one day I had about a half bottle left and used that... It came out beautiful ... A dark colored gold. I did in the past stir it well. But I think this needs more bottom stirring than usual. I will use it again but will store it upside down.
#24
Posted 28 February 2011 - 07:44 PM
#25
Posted 28 February 2011 - 07:48 PM
kathleencorcoran, on 28 February 2011 - 07:44 PM, said:
Also meant to add, I tried the saturation metallic the other day, put 4 brushed coats on and it turned out REALLY UGLY!
#26
Posted 01 March 2011 - 12:52 PM
My name is Steve Lampron and I am the ceramic engineer here at AMACO. I want to give some simple tips about firing the Palladium and Saturation Gold glazes.
Palladium: This is what I call a float glaze. This means that in order to get the shiny silver look you need to actually allow the supersaturated metallic particles to float to the surface and form the skin. There is no trick to this other than to make sure you put a good thick layer of glaze on the piece. This is true of many glazes (commercial and made at home) which need a good thickness of glaze in order to make the surface. If you do not put enough glaze on, you will not have enough excess material to float and the glaze will look totally wrong. In the case of Palladium, it will be a fairly ugly green color. We fired this glaze on all of our clay bodies at both cone 5 and cone 6 with great results. I have a caution; this glaze can be very fluid and run so make efforts to allow for this. When you first try glazes you need to run test tiles (pieces) that are fired vrtically where you vary the thickness from what you think is too thin to what you think is too thick. This will show you where to go to get the look you want, it will also show you what it looks like when it is wrong. You will then know what went wrong when you get a pot that looks wrong. This glaze will be fine at cone 5 or 6 and requires no soak (it will make it run more). A medium / 8 hour firing is good. Cool normally. I see that a few people have gotten some blisters on pots that are fully glazed. This has happened on some clay bodies I found out after releasing it. It never seems to happen on poecelain bodies and these will also give the best surface. Please try your pots again on porcelain.
Saturation Gold: This is also a float glaze so thickness is important as well. The glaze doesn't turn out a bright shiny gold like gold lusters or the old leaded cone 05 golds. It turns out a dark kind of wrinkled bronze gold. It is not an easy glaze to get to look smooth and perfect. The suggestion that applying it over another glossy mid-range glaze is something that I find also helps the surface. The plain fact of the matter is that this type of glaze is difficult to use and requires alot of trial work. The kiln Gods probably didn't want this type of glaze to be made. It can be beautiful when perfected but it is not as simple to perfect as a pretty little matte white glaze.
I can't stress enough how important it is for all potters (especially new ones) to test glazes well before making pots. I know the desire to just make a pot but this method will only lead to disappointment and bad pots. Let me know if this helps or if I can address any other concerns you have.
Steve..........
#27
Posted 01 March 2011 - 03:41 PM
If I may make a suggestion to your company, why not include any special instructions along with the product. If it weren't for this forum I probably wouldn't give the Paladium a second chance.
#28
Posted 03 March 2011 - 09:00 AM
I like the glaze now that I have figured out how to use it, and now that I understand I shouldn't expect it to be as shown on the site...but still. If you changed the picture on the site to a more realistic depiction, others won't be disappointed.
As for Palladium. Still trying. Again, I think the website misleads. I've attached a pic of the results I got on my test "shell" in saturation "gold".
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#29
Posted 02 November 2011 - 11:51 AM
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#30
Posted 06 November 2011 - 02:33 PM
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#31
Posted 24 April 2012 - 11:33 PM
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#32
Posted 25 April 2012 - 11:14 AM
#33
Posted 13 April 2013 - 05:57 PM
Really can't stress enough how important it is to apply these babies with generous coats. Also, experiment with the clay bodies. Our "regular classroom clay" is Standard's #153 Buff Stoneware, and we fire to cone 5 at a slow glaze speed.... the glazes need time to mature and melt properly. If you are having pinhole problems, you can try a "soak" at the end of your firing. My distributor and (wonderful clay/glaze/kiln goddess friend) recommended a 10 minute soak at the end of the firing. Worked wonders! I don't recommend this with "runny" glazes, but it seemed to create some nice effects with the metallic glazes. We also use various other clay bodies by Standard.... you will notice quite a difference on the lighter/white bodies compared to the darker bodies. My students really enjoy experimenting with test tiles to see what layering glazes look like. Amaco has a great site that shows various combos of their PC line.... We've achieved many of the same results.
HOpe this helps.... I know I'm late in adding my 2 cents. Hopefully you have all had happy results since your last posts!
Dawn
#34
Posted 13 April 2013 - 07:20 PM
Pam S, on 28 February 2011 - 02:01 PM, said:
My friend whom I do pottery with uses the gold at cone 6, 04 bisque and it comes out true gold.
#35
Posted 11 May 2013 - 06:24 AM
gypsy, on 13 April 2013 - 07:20 PM, said:
Pam S, on 28 February 2011 - 02:01 PM, said:
My friend whom I do pottery with uses the gold at cone 6, 04 bisque and it comes out true gold.
You need to apply it thicker.

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