Sodium Silicate For Majic Water?
#1
Posted 21 December 2010 - 11:58 AM
#2
Posted 21 December 2010 - 06:20 PM
#3
Posted 26 December 2010 - 08:52 PM
Good luck.
Terraforma Studio
Los Angeles, CA
#4
Posted 27 December 2010 - 11:15 PM
I'll have to look thru my notes for the conversion. On the road at the moment.
Marcia
#5
Posted 28 December 2010 - 09:35 AM
Marcia Selsor, on 27 December 2010 - 11:15 PM, said:
I'll have to look thru my notes for the conversion. On the road at the moment.
Marcia
I have the formula in tablespoon and teaspoon measurements, I'll find it an post it also.
#8
Posted 28 December 2010 - 08:32 PM
Much easier than what I have been using.
Marcia
#9
Posted 29 December 2010 - 01:49 PM
clay lover, on 21 December 2010 - 11:58 AM, said:
Hi,
We have written the following information that you might find usefull. See more details on this tip page in this link. For more pottery tips from Lakeside Pottery.
Pottery Magic Water & Magic Mud / Paper Clay When to use Magic Water?
Magic water is used when the bond between two pieces of clay is a suspect for cracking during drying or bisque firing. Cracks can occur in the following conditions:
- When one piece of clay dries faster than the other which typically occurs when it has a smaller mass or thinner than the other piece (e.g., a mug handle).
- When one clay piece is applied to another piece that is already a dryer leather-hard (e.g., when waiting is required for a thrown pot to harden before applying hand-built piece).
When to use Magic Mud / Paper Clay?
Same as above with more extreme cases. It enables the joining process to be less critical and therefore one can build more spontaneously as well as build wet clay on dryer clay. Stress cracks during drying reduce dramatically. It can also be used to connect broken bone-dry pots / sculptures. Sometimes it works fixing broken bisqued pots (needs to be re-bisqued after applying magic mud). When fixing broken bone-dry or bisqued pot, always apply more magic mud / magic slip than needed and build the layers slowly allowing the layers to dry in between applications. The excess slip can be filed down after the bisque firing.
Why does Magic Water work?
Sodium in the soda ash and the sodium silicate is a very powerful flux. The silica in the sodium silicate adds some glass-former. The water is to dissolve the soda ash (which is soluble) and therefore travels a little way into the wet clay. The sodium silicate is sticky and dries really hard and faster than the clay does. The end result is that the Magic Water makes a sticky layer of almost-glaze that soaks into the surrounding clay and dries hard. Thus, cracks are prevented in the drying and the bond is stronger after firing.
Why does Magic Mud /Paper Clay work?
In addition to the reasons mention above (Magic Water), the paper fiber will bond the two pieces of clay better and resist stress more effectively during the clay drying / shrinking process (has no effect during firing).
How to make Magic Water - Recipe?
- 1 gallon of water
- 3 table spoons of liquid sodium silicate
- 1 1/2 teaspoons of soda ash
- Chop up 1/4 to 1/3 of a cup of either paper napkin, toilet paper, or paper towel
- Add 3/4 to 2/3 of a cup of bone dry clay hammered into small pieces, or powdered. It is better to use the same clay for both, magic mud and your actual project.
- Soak over night in Magic Water poured one inch above clay and paper mixture.
- Blend in electric blender
- Pour off excess water
- The slip created is ready for use
543 Newfield Avenue
Stamford, CT 06905
203-323-2222
www.lakesidepottery.com
543 Newfield Avenue
Stamford, CT 06905
203-323-2222
www.lakesidepottery.com

#11
Posted 19 April 2011 - 03:05 PM
MAGIC WATER
3 Tablespoons sodium silicate
1 (one) teaspoon soda ash
1 gallon distilled water
#13
Posted 22 April 2011 - 08:27 AM
JKRosenberg, on 21 April 2011 - 07:28 AM, said:
I don't believe so, I have tried them at one point, as I used them in my glazes. However, I needed to make up some magic water and not being able to get it locally quick, I found a jar of radiator sealant-the main ingredient was Sodium Silicate. I used that in a solution that I started by doubling the amount and it worked pretty well.
#15
Posted 27 November 2012 - 10:32 PM
Firemountaion Studios, on 16 April 2011 - 04:08 PM, said:
To much sodium silicate will jell to whole mix, this can not be fixed.
Use as little as possible, a little goes a long way.
Sodium silicate is corrosive.
I have seen people get skin rashes using it.
When ever I make joining slip I add so much sodium sillicate so that the slip will become a gel, I just stir it to break up the gel before use, this really helps the bond when attaching clay to clay.
Darrel
Raku, Pit fired, Majolica, and Stoneware ceramic artisit
#17
Posted 29 November 2012 - 03:02 PM
#18
Posted 29 November 2012 - 10:34 PM
Krebs Pottery, on 29 November 2012 - 03:02 PM, said:
randy broadnax did this on a video here several months ago. our correspondent bciske makes some of the best looking slab work using this technique. if we are lucky he will post pictures of his positively pristine seams. (sigh with envy..................)
#19
Posted 30 November 2012 - 04:16 PM
oldlady, on 29 November 2012 - 10:34 PM, said:
Krebs Pottery, on 29 November 2012 - 03:02 PM, said:
randy broadnax did this on a video here several months ago. our correspondent bciske makes some of the best looking slab work using this technique. if we are lucky he will post pictures of his positively pristine seams. (sigh with envy..................)
Thanks very much for the kind words . . . but I don't use sodium silicate on my kohiki slabwork (although I sometimes add magic water to regular slip used for joining seams). There are pictures in the gallery and on the website www.bruceciskepottery.com

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