Is Canvas well just CANVAS? What type of canvas do you use?
#1
Posted 24 February 2013 - 06:50 PM
#2
Posted 24 February 2013 - 07:46 PM
#3
Posted 24 February 2013 - 09:06 PM
The first school I taught at, had a type, that were a bit stiffer, because they had some type of coating on the back, that made them very resistant to the clay soaking through.
I will say, there are some, who suggest not using canvas at all, because it traps the clay dust. It definitely does, but I have my students handle mine carefully, as to not to stir the dust, and I give them a good washing, every year.
#8
Posted 25 February 2013 - 05:04 PM
#9
Posted 25 February 2013 - 09:24 PM
#10
Posted 26 February 2013 - 02:44 PM
Benzine, on 25 February 2013 - 09:24 PM, said:
My tables had to be multipurpose also, but after a while the fine film of clay would get to the paper for drawing, and painting. I solved this problem by purchasing 30 large drawing boards with clips at the top. I also built a rack for them to hang on in the back of the room away from anything clay. We found that in the end they worked great for portrait and still life drawing while seated in chairs, worked well on the tables to work with pen and ink and painting, and would consistently give us smooth well secured undersurface. I purchased these with funds from my adult ceramics classes as I believed them to be a solution to the multipurpose room problem. My room was well kept, and cleaned, but clay being what it is. . .
#11
Posted 27 February 2013 - 07:23 PM
What ever you have will probably work. Don't buy canvas at the art store unless you are looking for an extra fine weave. Way too expensive. At businesses that use canvas for custom boat covers and other coverings, you can sometimes get a real bargain on roll ends--my usual cost has been in the $7 - $12 per yard range. Most canvas comes in 48" to 72" widths at this type of store.
I have separate wedging "covers", to use with porcelain, made from 1/4" Masonite. Using Ailene's waterproof glue (found at craft stores like Michael's) to attach the canvas I've been using this setup for over 30 years.
For six years--while being an "artist in the schools"--I introduced & taught 5th graders to appreciate and work with clay. The only tables we could use were cafeteria tables (you know the kind--eight feet long with fold up legs and Masonite tops) so I came up with canvas covers that could be easily put on and removed. Back to my marine/awning shop and they made them with hems on the long sides with grommets every 12 inches. Bungie cords hooked through the grommets kept the canvas tight and made a great working surface.
Shirley
#12
Posted 28 February 2013 - 07:58 PM
#13
Posted 01 March 2013 - 06:20 PM
Again thank you everyone I am so new at all this I don't even know what I don't know yet and this forum is a fabulous source of information.
Terry
#14
Posted 02 March 2013 - 08:35 PM
Now that's a great idea. I've constantly been trying to find a way to secure my canvases to the tables. I thought about using C-clamps, but those would be in the way. The bungie idea is great, though the canvases I have, don't have grommets. I supposed I could add some???
#15
Posted 03 March 2013 - 09:17 AM
Benzine, on 02 March 2013 - 08:35 PM, said:
Now that's a great idea. I've constantly been trying to find a way to secure my canvases to the tables. I thought about using C-clamps, but those would be in the way. The bungie idea is great, though the canvases I have, don't have grommets. I supposed I could add some???
A simple method is to use picnic table clamps.
#16
Posted 03 March 2013 - 03:16 PM
Pres, on 03 March 2013 - 08:17 AM, said:
Benzine, on 02 March 2013 - 08:35 PM, said:
Now that's a great idea. I've constantly been trying to find a way to secure my canvases to the tables. I thought about using C-clamps, but those would be in the way. The bungie idea is great, though the canvases I have, don't have grommets. I supposed I could add some???
A simple method is to use picnic table clamps.
Even better. Thank you Sir!
#17
Posted 04 March 2013 - 04:20 PM

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