Mixed Glaze, Looks Thin, But Brushed Thick Suggestions?
#1
Posted 12 January 2013 - 05:13 PM
The glazes settles in the bottle, fairly quickly as well.
So what can I do, to make the glazes more brushable? In the past, I used a suspender additive, that didn't seem to help much.
The glazes, as I mentioned, is from Continental Clay. They are low fire glazes; Federal Blue, Italian Green and Tarnished Brass.
Any advice is appreciated. I really like these colors, and the students enjoy them as well, but are hesitant to use them, because of the "clumpiness".
#3
Posted 12 January 2013 - 09:08 PM
I know the glaze Federal Blue-it is really blue! The problem with mixing from dry is that you have to sieve the glaze, which is a pain.If you don't have too much of the powdered stuff, I would move to glazes in jars. Life is too short to spend your teaching time sieving.
TJR.
#4
Posted 12 January 2013 - 09:56 PM
TJR, on 12 January 2013 - 08:08 PM, said:
I know the glaze Federal Blue-it is really blue! The problem with mixing from dry is that you have to sieve the glaze, which is a pain.If you don't have too much of the powdered stuff, I would move to glazes in jars. Life is too short to spend your teaching time sieving.
TJR.
You're right, it is BLUUUUUUE. That's one reason both myself, and the students, like it. I've found a combination, using it, that I really like as well. I mostly use Amaco bottled glazes, besides the three from Continental Clay I mentioned.
Exactly, what is involved in sieving? Is this something I would have to do, each time I mixed the glaze, or each time it was used?
#5
Posted 12 January 2013 - 10:10 PM
I agree with TJR, futzing with dry glazes isn't worth the savings. We now buy jar glazes.
Also, if your glaze is drying too fast as you apply it, spritz the piece with water or dampen it before you start applying the glaze, it makes life SOOO much easier.
#7
Posted 12 January 2013 - 11:22 PM
Mark C., on 12 January 2013 - 09:57 PM, said:
The mixer will make them where they do not need sieving.
mark
Ah, I like that suggestion. It just so happens, that I have a couple old blenders, sitting in my storage room, from a previous instructor. I think she used them for paper making, but they haven't been pulling their weight in years, so it may be time to put them back to work.
Any suggestion on a glaze suspender? The stuff I used in the past was just a whitish looking powder, also from Continental.
#8
Posted 13 January 2013 - 06:32 AM
Benzine, on 12 January 2013 - 02:13 PM, said:
The glazes settles in the bottle, fairly quickly as well.
So what can I do, to make the glazes more brushable? In the past, I used a suspender additive, that didn't seem to help much.
The glazes, as I mentioned, is from Continental Clay. They are low fire glazes; Federal Blue, Italian Green and Tarnished Brass.
Any advice is appreciated. I really like these colors, and the students enjoy them as well, but are hesitant to use them, because of the "clumpiness".
To what temperature are you bisque firing? A little harder ware may help eliminate some of that absorption.
#9
Posted 13 January 2013 - 01:25 PM
Lucille Oka, on 13 January 2013 - 05:32 AM, said:
Benzine, on 12 January 2013 - 02:13 PM, said:
The glazes settles in the bottle, fairly quickly as well.
So what can I do, to make the glazes more brushable? In the past, I used a suspender additive, that didn't seem to help much.
The glazes, as I mentioned, is from Continental Clay. They are low fire glazes; Federal Blue, Italian Green and Tarnished Brass.
Any advice is appreciated. I really like these colors, and the students enjoy them as well, but are hesitant to use them, because of the "clumpiness".
To what temperature are you bisque firing? A little harder ware may help eliminate some of that absorption.
Cone 04 bisque. All the other, bottle glazes, absorb well. It's just the powdered ones, I mix, that are the problem.
I'll try the blender method, Mark mentioned, and see how that goes. Everyone will think I'm making smoothies in the Art Room.
#10
Posted 13 January 2013 - 04:22 PM
Along with the other advice I would also suggest you look at the brushes you're using, they need to be able to hold a fair bit of glaze, not so important for a purpose made brush on glaze but for a dipping glaze it's critical, check the thickness of the glaze on the finished item, it's too easy to end up with a thinner than required glaze layer if you're brushing a dipping glaze.
#11
Posted 13 January 2013 - 04:35 PM
There are differences in the cone 04 temperatures even though it is just 56 degrees difference across the chart it is a telltale difference. I realize attempting to achieve specific temperatures can be difficult with a KilnSitter but adjustments can be made with a slight movement of the junior cone toward the thicker end in the sitter. A harder bisque can inhibit too much glaze absorption. But test it and see if this can work for you.
#12
Posted 23 January 2013 - 11:39 PM
I finally had a chance to get those glazes mixed up, and it appears to have worked wonders. I didn't add any suspender, at this time, as I don't have any. I'll probably wait and order some, later this year, as that's when I normally put in my purchase orders.
#13
Posted 24 January 2013 - 01:22 AM
heres a link to a supplier which I am not affiliated to.
I pre mix some and keep in a sealed container for use when needed-follow instructions from a sheet on the web site as its shipped with no info.
http://www.bigcerami...plies/magma.htm
Mark
www.liscomhillpottery.com
#14
Posted 24 January 2013 - 01:58 PM
Benzine, on 13 January 2013 - 01:25 PM, said:
Mmmmm! Glaze smoothies!
I read one potter's blog entry not too long ago about how she added Astroglide in lieu of glycerine, to make the glazes flow more smoothly (it's mostly glycerine).
#15
Posted 24 January 2013 - 02:57 PM
Benzine, on 12 January 2013 - 08:56 PM, said:
TJR, on 12 January 2013 - 08:08 PM, said:
I know the glaze Federal Blue-it is really blue! The problem with mixing from dry is that you have to sieve the glaze, which is a pain.If you don't have too much of the powdered stuff, I would move to glazes in jars. Life is too short to spend your teaching time sieving.
TJR.
You're right, it is BLUUUUUUE. That's one reason both myself, and the students, like it. I've found a combination, using it, that I really like as well. I mostly use Amaco bottled glazes, besides the three from Continental Clay I mentioned.
Exactly, what is involved in sieving? Is this something I would have to do, each time I mixed the glaze, or each time it was used?
Benzine;
Sorry to not get back to you with an answer to your question about sieving. This is a process more for studio glazes. I mix my studio glazes by the 10,000 gram batch. This works out to approx. 5 gallons. For my school situation, I have an 80 mesh sieve. I pour the liquid glaze from one bucket, through the sieve into another clean bucket. At home, I would then pour it back through a 100 mesh sieve[smaller size holes.] For school, I only use the one sieve, and sieve one time. For smaller batches, [jar size], you could buy a kitchen sieve at the dollar store and sieve through that.[probably a 40 mesh]
The mesh size comes from the number of holes per square inch. The smaller the hole in the screen, the more per square inch-so a 100 mesh screen would be finer than an 80 mesh.This is one of those things in life that is easier to show, rather than type.
TJR.
#16
Posted 24 January 2013 - 04:29 PM
Kiln Repair Tech
L&L Distributor
Owner, Neil Estrick Gallery, LLC
www.neilestrickgallery.com
neil@neilestrickgallery.com
#17
Posted 24 January 2013 - 06:50 PM
Mark C., on 24 January 2013 - 12:22 AM, said:
heres a link to a supplier which I am not affiliated to.
I pre mix some and keep in a sealed container for use when needed-follow instructions from a sheet on the web site as its shipped with no info.
http://www.bigcerami...plies/magma.htm
Mark
That looks like good stuff. I've never purchased anything from that store, but I'm familiar with it. Thanks again Mark.

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