Clays causing glaze problems?
#1
Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:20 AM
In this glaze test,
- The Little Loafers pots came out very well with few glaze issues, just an occasional pinhole.
- The Desert Buff all had problems, pinholes inside and out, small blisters on rims, particularly where I layered glazes, and what I call crud appearing on the inside. This even happened with commercial glazes.
- The Bella's Blend was somewhere between the other two clays in having problems.
Of the three clays, I assume Little Loafers is the cleanest so should have less organic material to burn out. I have difficulty throwing large posts with Little Loafers, as it has little tooth and tends to collapse. Desert Buff is great to throw with but has given me too many glaze issues. I was hoping Bella's Blend would be a good compromise.
Suggestions?
Dry Ridge Pottery
#2
Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:59 AM
Contemporary Fine Colored Porcelain
www.ccpottery.com
"My Artwork would not exist without a thriving global pottery community.
In the isolation of a studio, an artist can begin to feel like an island, but in truth
we are all part of archipelagoes; chains of islands loosely connected by a stream
of information that enhances our Artwork.”
#4
Posted 05 December 2012 - 01:49 PM
100 degree ramp to 250
250 degree ramp to 2000
75 degree ramp to 2150 with 15 minute hold
500 degree ramp to 1850 with 15 minute hold
125 degree ramp to 1600
Dry Ridge Pottery
#6
Posted 05 December 2012 - 10:26 PM
Glaze and clay must fit each other. Beading, crawling, cracking, crazing etc lies in incompatibility between the two ... it's not the 'fault' of either one ... One size does not fit all.
Many think commercial glazes are designed to fit all clays but that would be impossible ... excellent glaze/clay fit is hard to achieve and seldom occurs without trial and error and scads of reading and of testing ... which is why it is so great to see it and be able to achieve it firing after firing.
If you want to be able to glaze with confidence then you have to bite the bullet and read those scary books and run some glaze tests. Or take a glaze workshop or just a workshop with someone who understands glazes and ask every question you can think of.
** disclaimer ... I personally do not glaze with confidence, but I know why I don't and I know how thoroughly I have avoided the chemistry that I need to know in order to turn that around.
Contemporary Fine Colored Porcelain
www.ccpottery.com
"My Artwork would not exist without a thriving global pottery community.
In the isolation of a studio, an artist can begin to feel like an island, but in truth
we are all part of archipelagoes; chains of islands loosely connected by a stream
of information that enhances our Artwork.”
#7
Posted 06 December 2012 - 08:55 AM
I don't think their QQ is as tight as some might wish it was. I figure there are different things in the
#8
Posted 06 December 2012 - 10:28 AM
Diane Puckett, on 05 December 2012 - 12:49 PM, said:
100 degree ramp to 250
250 degree ramp to 2000
75 degree ramp to 2150 with 15 minute hold
500 degree ramp to 1850 with 15 minute hold
125 degree ramp to 1600
For your peak temperature, you may be better off putting in a cone number instead. So rather than 2150, put in cone 5 or 6. That way you'll be sure you are getting the proper heat work. To do that, push the 'Other' button and it will allow you to input a cone rather than a temperature.
Kiln Repair Tech
L&L Distributor
Owner, Neil Estrick Gallery, LLC
www.neilestrickgallery.com
neil@neilestrickgallery.com
#9
Posted 06 December 2012 - 05:55 PM
I have a very small studio and do my glaze mixing outdoors. With winter coming, I plan to put further glaze development on hold until spring. In the meantime, I am going to use Little Loafer, as it does not seem to cause problems with my glazes. Highwater is six miles from my place, so I am hoping to work out ways to use some of their other clays.
Dry Ridge Pottery
#10
Posted 06 December 2012 - 05:57 PM
neilestrick, on 06 December 2012 - 10:28 AM, said:
Diane Puckett, on 05 December 2012 - 12:49 PM, said:
100 degree ramp to 250
250 degree ramp to 2000
75 degree ramp to 2150 with 15 minute hold
500 degree ramp to 1850 with 15 minute hold
125 degree ramp to 1600
For your peak temperature, you may be better off putting in a cone number instead. So rather than 2150, put in cone 5 or 6. That way you'll be sure you are getting the proper heat work. To do that, push the 'Other' button and it will allow you to input a cone rather than a temperature.
My witness cones were okay for cone 6 on each shelf. Do you still think I need to change this?
Dry Ridge Pottery
#11
Posted 06 December 2012 - 05:58 PM
clay lover, on 06 December 2012 - 08:55 AM, said:
I don't think their QQ is as tight as some might wish it was. I figure there are different things in the
I agree with that issue. With your slower firing, is that for bisque or glazing firing?
Dry Ridge Pottery
#12
Posted 06 December 2012 - 06:00 PM
bciskepottery, on 05 December 2012 - 05:49 PM, said:
Interestingly, when I consulted with one of Highwater's tech people about this, I was advised to not use Buncombe White.
Dry Ridge Pottery
#13
Posted 06 December 2012 - 06:45 PM
clay lover, on 06 December 2012 - 07:55 AM, said:
From a quality control standpoint, it's incredibly difficult, if not impossible, for the clay companies to test for things like this. They can't test every firing and glaze scenario. They also can't alter a formula or substitute an ingredient every time things get a little goofy. It would just anger the bulk of their customers who aren't having problems. It could be something as simple as a change in their water, or the section of the mine that a certain fireclay is coming from. By the time they identify the problem and make changes, the problem will have disappeared. We have to accept that there a too many variables in ceramics to make every clay and glaze fool-proof. It could even be something in our throwing water and not related to the clay supplier at all.
Kiln Repair Tech
L&L Distributor
Owner, Neil Estrick Gallery, LLC
www.neilestrickgallery.com
neil@neilestrickgallery.com
#14
Posted 07 December 2012 - 10:22 AM
neilestrick, on 06 December 2012 - 06:45 PM, said:
clay lover, on 06 December 2012 - 07:55 AM, said:
Absolutely. But it is very difficult for those of us who are new to glaze making and firing, as it adds another inconsistent variable. In retrospect, starting with only one, generally glaze-friendly clay would have been wise. One more thing that seems so obvious now, but was not early in the process when everything was overw
From a quality control standpoint, it's incredibly difficult, if not impossible, for the clay companies to test for things like this. They can't test every firing and glaze scenario. They also can't alter a formula or substitute an ingredient every time things get a little goofy. It would just anger the bulk of their customers who aren't having problems. It could be something as simple as a change in their water, or the section of the mine that a certain fireclay is coming from. By the time they identify the problem and make changes, the problem will have disappeared. We have to accept that there a too many variables in ceramics to make every clay and glaze fool-proof. It could even be something in our throwing water and not related to the clay supplier at all.
[/quote]
Absolutely. But it is very difficult for those of us who are new to glaze making and firing, as it adds another inconsistent variable. In retrospect, starting with only one, generally glaze-friendly clay would have been wise. One more thing that seems so obvious now, but was not early in the process when everything was overwhelming.
Dry Ridge Pottery

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