when can I open my kiln?
#1
Posted 23 July 2012 - 07:20 PM
#2
Posted 23 July 2012 - 07:54 PM
Quick answer: 93d C. for bisque and gloss firing then you can open kiln and touch pots. If you have opened gloss kiln and things are pinging, and you need gloves to handle the ware...stop. Close. lid. and. wait. I will crack the lid at 200d C and wait it out. Could go on a bit of a rant about anticipation, and instant gratification, but I won't. You know what I mean here. Get the kids on another project to take their minds off "when do we open the kiln" huh? huh?
Yes. Yes, I know there are some people who push the envelope and open up a hot kiln and let it all happen. But you've got the kids' work in there and you've done a long slow bisque to ensure 100% success rate on these thickly made and no doubt riddled with air pockets precious pieces....What's another couple of hours?
www.DinahSnipesSteveni.com
#3
Posted 23 July 2012 - 08:51 PM
The best temperature to open the kiln is the same temperature they were when they went in, and that is room temperature. That way there is no 'ifs', 'ands' or 'buts' about it. If you find that you can't wait to open the kiln go read a book, make dinner, clean up the shop, watch a movie, start planting those petunias, there are a lot of things you can do while you are waiting for the cool down.
Don't rush it, you won't regret it.
#4
Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:24 PM
Lucille Oka, on 23 July 2012 - 09:51 PM, said:
The best temperature to open the kiln is the same temperature they were when they went in, and that is room temperature. That way there is no 'ifs', 'ands' or 'buts' about it. If you find that you can't wait to open the kiln go read a book, make dinner, clean up the shop, watch a movie, start planting those petunias, there are a lot of things you can do while you are waiting for the cool down.
Don't rush it, you won't regret it.
#5
Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:35 PM
#6
Posted 23 July 2012 - 09:38 PM
#7
Posted 23 July 2012 - 10:47 PM
Additionally, you can do a newspaper test should you not have a pyrometer: Take a sheet and roll it on the long end - stick it inside a spy hole - if it ignites, the kiln is too hot to open - if it smolders you are in range to crack the lid and begin cooling the kiln down at a faster pace.
At about 300d/F I will typically open the lid fully without issue.
On a side note: If you're firing thicker work in a bisque kiln with manual or digital settings - be sure to spend extra time letting the kiln soak at 'Medium'. This (again, 600 d/F is crucial) is where carbon and chemical water begin to burn out of the clay body - if you move through the medium sequences too quickly - carbon and chemical water will trap itself inside the clay body resulting in an explosion - destroying someone's work.
Hope this helps!
#8
Posted 23 July 2012 - 11:02 PM
#9
Posted 24 July 2012 - 12:52 AM
yedrow, on 23 July 2012 - 09:02 PM, said:
What yedrow said. Also keep in mind that the thermocouple may have its own measurement error and also that the temperature of different areas of the kiln can be different, and even of the tops and bottoms of the same pot. in essence, you want no part of the ceramic to undergo the quartz inversion (a phase transition, an abrupt volume change) too quickly or it may dunt. so allowing for temperature variation within pots and within the kiln, better play it safe. I pull the peeps at 250F and crack at 200F, open at 180F and unload at 150F or cooler. It's a community studio and we fire to cone 6.
#10
Posted 24 July 2012 - 05:05 AM
morah, on 23 July 2012 - 07:20 PM, said:
This is one of those "it depends" questions. Too many variables for one answer to fit all. Trial and , unfortunately, error will teach you- and the kids- what you can and cannot do. A rule of thumb is the kitchen oven parameter; 300-400 degrees F, and use oven mitts.
You can speed the cooling, once you are below the inversion temp, by opening the bottom and top peepholes, to create a draft. Since you have an electronic controller, you can check the temperature at each thermocouple.
#12
Posted 24 July 2012 - 09:02 AM
Try to find a good used kiln so you can have one to bisque in and one to glaze in. there are a lot for sale at very good prices... Patience is so very hard, but after I did this a few times, it is called shivering, i learned my lesson, if it is too hot to hold, you will have problems down the road.
this happened 4 days after it came out of kiln, that is how long it took the glaze to crack all the way around the yarn bowl.
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#13
Posted 24 July 2012 - 08:46 PM
#14
Posted 25 July 2012 - 09:24 AM
morah, on 24 July 2012 - 09:46 PM, said:
Hum... do the math.
Unless it is a charity situation........ 100 kids parents PAYING for camp each month. 100 kids enjoying getting fired ceramic works as part of that camp experience. What you are doing is part of the reason that they are THERE in the first place. Your efforts help generate the interest in the camp. You help bring in revenue.
Bigger kiln, the possibility of larger scale pieces or more output from the really interested kids (and hence more "camp experience satisfaction"). Bigger kiln, the lower the energy costs per pound of work fired. (In a periodic kiln like that a huge portion of the energy is use to heat the kiln structure itself plus the ratio of interior volume to wall surface for heat loss exchange goes in your favor.) The less time you spend loading and unloading a kiln is the more time you can spend on the important stuff like personally interacting with the kids.
best,
.................john
Immediate Past President; Potters Council
Professor of Ceramics; New Hampshire Insitute of Art
http://www.JohnBaymore.com
#16
Posted 09 August 2012 - 07:06 PM
morah, on 26 July 2012 - 11:35 AM, said:
I just wanted to give you all an update: I spoke to the camp director and mentioned all of John's points and he asked me to look into the cost of adding a ring to my existing kiln! Of course I immediately got him the info. It isn't cheap, but definitely less then another kiln. He didn't say no outright, so I am hoping. I'll try to keep you posted!

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