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^6 shino experiment w/ dots pre-firing treatment

#1 User is offline   Marcia Selsor Icon

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Posted 18 May 2012 - 03:38 PM

This is a Malcolm Davis's Shino recipe applied over a soda ash wash that sat for 2 weeks in a box of styrofoam popcorn packaging. The theory is the popcorn outgases something that is absorbed by the soda ash.

The first pot is made from light stoneware. The second is made from a darker stoneware but nothing like a black stoneware. There are visual dots on both pieces that were cause from the popcorn. Fired in ^6 reduction firing in a slight reduction after ^09 up to ^6. I think there is some potential here. Stranger than weird , but interesting. I was told to try this by Mike McCullough of the Seattle area wood-firers when I went to an NCECA pre-conference workshop.
Also John Britt said Malcolm's Shino worked without altering for ^6.


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#2 User is offline   teardrop Icon

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 07:30 AM

View PostMarcia Selsor, on 18 May 2012 - 01:38 PM, said:

This is a Malcolm Davis's Shino recipe applied over a soda ash wash that sat for 2 weeks in a box of styrofoam popcorn packaging. The theory is the popcorn outgases something that is absorbed by the soda ash.

The first pot is made from light stoneware. The second is made from a darker stoneware but nothing like a black stoneware. There are visual dots on both pieces that were cause from the popcorn. Fired in ^6 reduction firing in a slight reduction after ^09 up to ^6. I think there is some potential here. Stranger than weird , but interesting. I was told to try this by Mike McCullough of the Seattle area wood-firers when I went to an NCECA pre-conference workshop.
Also John Britt said Malcolm's Shino worked without altering for ^6.


Marcia



Plastic wrap/bubble wrap will also work in the same fashion with MD shino. Wrap the peice and let it sit for a week before firing. Very neat.

Wax resist over the Shino will also produce varied colors where applied.

interesting info about cone 6 viability with MD Shino. thanks


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#3 User is offline   macdoodle Icon

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Posted 19 May 2012 - 04:56 PM

Nice effects!
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#4 User is offline   Craig Icon

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 09:39 AM

So, to be clear, you glaze the pot as described then put the unfired glazed pot in the styrofoam for two weeks before the glaze firing? The styrofoam actually touches the unfired glaze on the bisqued pot?
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#5 User is offline   Marcia Selsor Icon

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 03:01 PM

No. I applied a soda ash wash to the pots and then set them both in styrofoam peanuts for two weeks. Then I glazed it with Malcolm's Shino and fired to a flat ^6 with a slight reduction fro ^09 on up.
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#6 User is offline   Craig Icon

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Posted 20 May 2012 - 07:26 PM

Thanks much. I can't wait to try it.
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#7 User is offline   teardrop Icon

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Posted 21 May 2012 - 07:55 AM

View PostCraig, on 20 May 2012 - 07:39 AM, said:

So, to be clear, you glaze the pot as described then put the unfired glazed pot in the styrofoam for two weeks before the glaze firing? The styrofoam actually touches the unfired glaze on the bisqued pot?


At school we learned that you can dip your work in MD Shino.....let it dry....then cover it with a plastic bag...allowing the bag to touch the glaze. Where it touches, the glaze will darken visually over time (a week or so) and when fired, those darker spots will show up as (even more) variations in the colors present
One lady used "bubble wrap" and got a similar effect to what Marcia has shown......dots all over.

good luck in your experiements..

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#8 User is offline   Diana Ferreira Icon

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Posted 22 May 2012 - 11:09 AM

Love it! Thank your for sharing the info too.
Diana
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