[gypsy]

^You folks are so lucky to have this knowledge and understanding of gas kilns and reduction. I want so badly to own a gas kiln but can't afford one and am afraid it would be too difficult to fire. I am humbled by the knowledge you guys have Do used gas kilns ever appear for sale? I have never seen on advertised...but who would want to give one up.

[neilestrick]

You don't need a gas kiln! I fired cone 10 reduction for 15 years, then switched to cone 6 electric and never looked back. I'm making the best pots and glazes I ever have. Don't feel like gas is better than electric. It's not. It's just different.

[Red Rocks]

neilestrick, on 27 April 2013 - 08:54 AM, said:

You don't want to put anything directly in front of the burner port. Assuming we're talking about burners going in horizontally, there should be a target brick in the middle of the firebox that breaks up the flame.

Actually the burners are vertical - coming up through the floor - right in front of the bottom peep. The idea is to put a post or refractory across the middle of the port so that you are not blocking it - just moving the flame to each side.


I also heard today that a local teacher user a rebar pole and he touches the cone when he can't see it. This seems to make the cone easier to see. I am going to try that next time.

[Red Rocks]

Mark C., on 26 April 2013 - 08:56 PM, said:

A solid thin piece of soft brick or hard behind cones works like a post -anything to set the cones off visually.
Spiting the flame with a post may or may not help
Darker glasses will help as well as a laser pointer (or so I'm told)
Mark

I actually have a laser pointer, so I will try that as well.

[Mark C.]

Red Rocks
My little 12 cubic Burman updraft has 6 burners pointing up like yours-(Its almost to cone 10 now) and I do not even put cones on bottom as its always hotter there and I fire it only with top cones.I load all the need heat glazes on bottom and cool glazes on top and its worked great like this for past 20-25 years.I know its always a cone or more off on bottom and just accept it.
Mark

[Red Rocks]

Mark C., on 28 April 2013 - 12:01 AM, said:

Red Rocks
My little 12 cubic Burman updraft has 6 burners pointing up like yours-(Its almost to cone 10 now) and I do not even put cones on bottom as its always hotter there and I fire it only with top cones.I load all the need heat glazes on bottom and cool glazes on top and its worked great like this for past 20-25 years.I know its always a cone or more off on bottom and just accept it.
Mark

Mark


Sage advice as always from you. That is probably where I will end up as soon as I figure our which glazes thru at each temp.....

[neilestrick]

Red Rocks, on 27 April 2013 - 06:45 PM, said:

neilestrick, on 27 April 2013 - 08:54 AM, said:

You don't want to put anything directly in front of the burner port. Assuming we're talking about burners going in horizontally, there should be a target brick in the middle of the firebox that breaks up the flame.

Actually the burners are vertical - coming up through the floor - right in front of the bottom peep. The idea is to put a post or refractory across the middle of the port so that you are not blocking it - just moving the flame to each side.


I also heard today that a local teacher user a rebar pole and he touches the cone when he can't see it. This seems to make the cone easier to see. I am going to try that next time.

I wouldn't put anything across a port. It would probably cause back pressure more than anything, unless the block was above the port at least a couple of inches.