exposed coil work coil technique followed to build sculptures
#1
Posted 31 March 2012 - 01:27 AM
#3
Posted 02 April 2012 - 08:09 AM
However for sculptural works I quickly abandoned this and use shorter strips and chunks. As long as the layers are worked into each other.
If you don't smooth it can give more texture and character.
Some glazes are specifically made to suit uneven surfaces - the bumps and hollows give different colours.
#4
Posted 03 April 2012 - 04:45 AM
Denice, on 01 April 2012 - 09:02 PM, said:
nice of you to reply. well ,i use stoneware body , having a maturity temperature of 1200 degrees. i ahve never used cones. i make very fine coils. you could compare the size to that is spagetti. so have you done work in coils where the coils are exposed? sometimes,i have very fine fracture like cracks in my pieces after firing? what could be the reason?
#5
Posted 03 April 2012 - 04:47 AM
Frederik-W, on 02 April 2012 - 06:39 PM, said:
However for sculptural works I quickly abandoned this and use shorter strips and chunks. As long as the layers are worked into each other.
If you don't smooth it can give more texture and character.
Some glazes are specifically made to suit uneven surfaces - the bumps and hollows give different colours.
yes i think the texture is so good i simply don't feel like glazing it. if the clay body has a good colour. even better the piece looks really good.
#6
Posted 03 April 2012 - 11:58 AM
#7
Posted 04 April 2012 - 08:23 AM
Denice, on 03 April 2012 - 10:28 PM, said:
#10
Posted 04 April 2012 - 11:02 AM
madhavi kolte, on 04 April 2012 - 08:24 AM, said:
One of my units I used to teach was coil construction. We would mostly use the coil and pinch technique where the coils were overlapped on the inside, and then pinched to the same thickness as the rest of the form. This allowed larger thinner forms with strong joins. When a student wanted to have the coils exposed for decoration we would place coils on top, use slip or magic water between, and smooth the insides carefully. This allowed the coils to reside on the outside, but a smooth interior. Often a wash of iron oxide was used to accent the coil structure more.
#11
Posted 06 April 2012 - 01:17 AM
Kabe, on 04 April 2012 - 09:05 PM, said:
sure, here is one that i have attached. infact i would really appreciate if you could give me your feedback.
IMG_3128.JPG (114.91K)
Number of downloads: 130
#13
Posted 09 April 2012 - 07:23 PM
Frederik-W, on 09 April 2012 - 07:14 AM, said:
This one reminds me of some forms of fungi that grow in the forest.
thanks Frederik, though this one has been inspired by the corals i saw around the lakshwadeep islands! but htis is peculiar about nature ....all its forms are so connected...we all can interpret it our way....the way we percieve it..
#14
Posted 10 April 2012 - 03:29 PM
#15
Posted 11 April 2012 - 10:42 PM
madhavi kolte, on 06 April 2012 - 01:17 AM, said:
Kabe, on 04 April 2012 - 09:05 PM, said:
sure, here is one that i have attached. infact i would really appreciate if you could give me your feedback.
Thank you for sharing. Sorry I took so long to thank you. Been real busy. I agree with the other posts. Your work is beautiful, like nature, a fungas or a coral from the sea. must take a lot of time to construct a piece. I don't do a lot of coil work so I can't be much help. sometime I will take a piece that I have been working on and when I am done I will put it in a plastic bag and let it set a day or so , so all the clay can equalize in moisture content. Then I'll take it out of the bag for a few hours and then seal it back up and then do it again the next day. I repeat this process until it is dry I think this helps it to shrink evenly and thinner pieces don't crack and separate from the thicker pieces. Also when you are working on a piece that takes more time, the early parts of it are getting dryer than the part you are working on. I do not know if that would apply to what you are doing or not. Just a thought. ain't clay fun Kabe
#16
Posted 12 April 2012 - 12:43 AM
Kabe, on 12 April 2012 - 09:12 AM, said:
madhavi kolte, on 06 April 2012 - 01:17 AM, said:
Kabe, on 04 April 2012 - 09:05 PM, said:
sure, here is one that i have attached. infact i would really appreciate if you could give me your feedback.
Thank you for sharing. Sorry I took so long to thank you. Been real busy. I agree with the other posts. Your work is beautiful, like nature, a fungas or a coral from the sea. must take a lot of time to construct a piece. I don't do a lot of coil work so I can't be much help. sometime I will take a piece that I have been working on and when I am done I will put it in a plastic bag and let it set a day or so , so all the clay can equalize in moisture content. Then I'll take it out of the bag for a few hours and then seal it back up and then do it again the next day. I repeat this process until it is dry I think this helps it to shrink evenly and thinner pieces don't crack and separate from the thicker pieces. Also when you are working on a piece that takes more time, the early parts of it are getting dryer than the part you are working on. I do not know if that would apply to what you are doing or not. Just a thought. ain't clay fun Kabe
#17
Posted 12 April 2012 - 07:19 PM
wayne, on 11 April 2012 - 01:59 AM, said:
hello wayne. i'm glad you liked my work. certainly i can share a few more pictures...
leaf (new).jpg (60.23K)
Number of downloads: 79
IMG_3136.JPG (127.7K)
Number of downloads: 80
#18
Posted 12 April 2012 - 07:23 PM
madhavi kolte, on 12 April 2012 - 11:13 AM, said:
Kabe, on 12 April 2012 - 09:12 AM, said:
madhavi kolte, on 06 April 2012 - 01:17 AM, said:
Kabe, on 04 April 2012 - 09:05 PM, said:
sure, here is one that i have attached. infact i would really appreciate if you could give me your feedback.
Thank you for sharing. Sorry I took so long to thank you. Been real busy. I agree with the other posts. Your work is beautiful, like nature, a fungas or a coral from the sea. must take a lot of time to construct a piece. I don't do a lot of coil work so I can't be much help. sometime I will take a piece that I have been working on and when I am done I will put it in a plastic bag and let it set a day or so , so all the clay can equalize in moisture content. Then I'll take it out of the bag for a few hours and then seal it back up and then do it again the next day. I repeat this process until it is dry I think this helps it to shrink evenly and thinner pieces don't crack and separate from the thicker pieces. Also when you are working on a piece that takes more time, the early parts of it are getting dryer than the part you are working on. I do not know if that would apply to what you are doing or not. Just a thought. ain't clay fun Kabe
you are absolutely right about drying the piece gradually and also in my case the part worked on earlier dries up but the gives my piece the strenght to bear the latter part...so it is fine.
#20
Posted 16 April 2012 - 02:15 AM

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