Stainless steel
#1
Posted 27 February 2012 - 01:48 PM
A home made (stoneware clay) bead frame type device will be used for suspending them above the kiln shelf but I don't currently have any Nichrome wire for the rail.
Is it OK to use some stainless steel rod? Melting point of s/s is well above cone 6 but is there anything else to consider?
Is batt wash or something similar required on the hanging rail?
#2
Posted 27 February 2012 - 03:08 PM
I've got a stand like the attached picture but the last batch was too heavy and tipped over when fired.
I'd be interested in how your stand looks.
Attached File(s)
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beadracksmall.jpg (4.48K)
Number of downloads: 11
#4
Posted 27 February 2012 - 04:49 PM
Nichrome is the way to go .
I can tell you at cone 10 steel pliers are just a nasty crusty pool of goo.With nothing left that would give away what they once where.
Mark
www.liscomhillpottery.com
#5
Posted 27 February 2012 - 05:53 PM
Kiln Repair Tech
L&L Distributor
Owner, Neil Estrick Gallery, LLC
www.neilestrickgallery.com
neil@neilestrickgallery.com
#6
#7
Posted 28 February 2012 - 03:42 PM
Mark C., on 27 February 2012 - 09:49 PM, said:
It's definitely got to be done.
It's more substantial than wire, I've got some s/s rod that's about 3-4mm diameter.
I'll give it a go with a couple of pieces and report back.
@Mark S - my frame is so crude I wouldn't dare show you.
#8
Posted 28 February 2012 - 03:57 PM
ayjay, on 28 February 2012 - 03:42 PM, said:
Mark C., on 27 February 2012 - 09:49 PM, said:
It's definitely got to be done.
It's more substantial than wire, I've got some s/s rod that's about 3-4mm diameter.
I'll give it a go with a couple of pieces and report back.
@Mark S - my frame is so crude I wouldn't dare show you.
Talk about crude, a few years back I had some adult students interested in making beads and pendants. I had an old kiln setter rod, and some soft fire brick-Yep placed the beads and pendants on the rod cut the fire brick in half and placed the rod into the firebrick on either side. Worked great for many many firings. Then later I bought a commercial set up for up to cone 6. It held many more rods, but was not nearly as stable as my firebrick set up.
#10
Posted 29 February 2012 - 12:48 PM
Mark C., on 27 February 2012 - 03:49 PM, said:
Nichrome is the way to go .
I can tell you at cone 10 steel pliers are just a nasty crusty pool of goo.With nothing left that would give away what they once where.
Mark
Mark;
Did you accidentally leave your pliers in the kiln? How else would you know this?
TJR.
#11
Posted 29 February 2012 - 03:39 PM
TJR, on 29 February 2012 - 12:48 PM, said:
Mark C., on 27 February 2012 - 03:49 PM, said:
Nichrome is the way to go .
I can tell you at cone 10 steel pliers are just a nasty crusty pool of goo.With nothing left that would give away what they once where.
Mark
Mark;
Did you accidentally leave your pliers in the kiln? How else would you know this?
TJR.
I left some Klien electricans neednose (spendy) after repairing a wire holding my button on a fiber lining on side walls years ago-The car kiln was loaded with a glaze load and I rested them on a shelve and forgot about them-rolled in the car and the rest is history
Its the same story of why I know what cone 5 B mix clay does at cone 10 or low fire clay (o6) at cone 10-I can tell you exactly what it does.
Stuff happens over the years-I do not let any clay thats not 10 in my studio ever-I like milwaukee grinders as much as anyone but I like mine best on the shelve not in my hands.
Mark
www.liscomhillpottery.com
#12
Posted 03 March 2012 - 02:39 PM
ayjay, on 28 February 2012 - 08:42 PM, said:
I'll give it a go with a couple of pieces and report back.
Turned out just fine, no slumping of the rod, and nothing stuck to it either (which surprised me).
The rod, to which I applied batt wash (was a s/s wall tie, usually used to tie two layers of brickwork together), has turned black and sooty looking, I may just chuck it and use a fresh one each time, I can pick them up for free at work whenever I need some.

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