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Another question about cones! Rate Topic: -----

#1 User is offline   nancylee Icon

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 11:25 AM

Hi all,
I had my kiln set up in the garage, so that is good. I fired my first bisque firing in this older Skutt kiln, and it was on for about 7 hours - an hour on low with lid open, an hour on low with lid closed, an hour on medium and then about 4 hours on high, because it never turned off. I turned it off manually, and hoped it had bisqued. When I unloaded the kiln today (not full at all, really just playing right now) the cone had fallen out, which is why it never turned the kiln off. When I went to try just now, when I set the cone and push the external button, the cone falls out. So I decided to try the old fashioned way, just like I learned to take photos on a Pentax K1000, and set up witness cones. I honestly would rather do this manually to get a feel of time and process, I have zero patience with technology that doesn't work.

So, I don't have actual witness cones, so if I make a set-up, can I place them in clay during a cone 6 glaze firing?? Is that OK? I am new here, and experimenting and learning, but I don't want the clay to blow all over the glazed pieces!!
Thanks in advance,
Nancy
Nancy
Northern Woods Pottery
www.northernwoodsstudio.blogspot.com
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#2 User is offline   Arnold Howard Icon

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 11:52 AM

View Postnancylee, on 23 February 2012 - 10:25 AM, said:

When I unloaded the kiln today (not full at all, really just playing right now) the cone had fallen out, which is why it never turned the kiln off. When I went to try just now, when I set the cone and push the external button, the cone falls out. So I decided to try the old fashioned way, just like I learned to take photos on a Pentax K1000, and set up witness cones. I honestly would rather do this manually to get a feel of time and process, I have zero patience with technology that doesn't work.


Nancy, I think you should use the Kiln Sitter in addition to witness cones. Did you center the cone on the two cone supports? Is the rod on top of the cone? The cone should not fall out if it is installed that way. Before firing the kiln, you should also adjust the Kiln Sitter with a firing gauge.

You should use large cones as witness cones. It is important that they are slanted 8 degrees, or they will not bend accurately.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com
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#3 User is offline   nancylee Icon

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 12:31 PM

View PostArnold Howard, on 23 February 2012 - 11:52 AM, said:

View Postnancylee, on 23 February 2012 - 10:25 AM, said:

When I unloaded the kiln today (not full at all, really just playing right now) the cone had fallen out, which is why it never turned the kiln off. When I went to try just now, when I set the cone and push the external button, the cone falls out. So I decided to try the old fashioned way, just like I learned to take photos on a Pentax K1000, and set up witness cones. I honestly would rather do this manually to get a feel of time and process, I have zero patience with technology that doesn't work.


Nancy, I think you should use the Kiln Sitter in addition to witness cones. Did you center the cone on the two cone supports? Is the rod on top of the cone? The cone should not fall out if it is installed that way. Before firing the kiln, you should also adjust the Kiln Sitter with a firing gauge.

You should use large cones as witness cones. It is important that they are slanted 8 degrees, or they will not bend accurately.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com


Thank you, Arnold! I just played with the kiln sitter and the cone didn't fall out this time! And I put some cones in near a peephole,too. I want to understand the timing and process, not just hit a button and walk away,
Nancy
Nancy
Northern Woods Pottery
www.northernwoodsstudio.blogspot.com
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#4 User is offline   Pres Icon

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 12:40 PM

View Postnancylee, on 23 February 2012 - 12:31 PM, said:

View PostArnold Howard, on 23 February 2012 - 11:52 AM, said:

View Postnancylee, on 23 February 2012 - 10:25 AM, said:

When I unloaded the kiln today (not full at all, really just playing right now) the cone had fallen out, which is why it never turned the kiln off. When I went to try just now, when I set the cone and push the external button, the cone falls out. So I decided to try the old fashioned way, just like I learned to take photos on a Pentax K1000, and set up witness cones. I honestly would rather do this manually to get a feel of time and process, I have zero patience with technology that doesn't work.


Nancy, I think you should use the Kiln Sitter in addition to witness cones. Did you center the cone on the two cone supports? Is the rod on top of the cone? The cone should not fall out if it is installed that way. Before firing the kiln, you should also adjust the Kiln Sitter with a firing gauge.

You should use large cones as witness cones. It is important that they are slanted 8 degrees, or they will not bend accurately.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com


Thank you, Arnold! I just played with the kiln sitter and the cone didn't fall out this time! And I put some cones in near a peephole,too. I want to understand the timing and process, not just hit a button and walk away,
Nancy


Another thing to be aware of with any kiln, and especially sectional kilns. The kiln should be balanced, so that the setter is at perpendicular. At the same time if the setter is mounted over or near two sections if they are not aligned right the center will not go off. This because the bar that swings down won't. Be very cognizant of working with your setter to assure that you have safe firings-always a good idea to double check before starting the kiln that everything with the setter is right as it will save you much misery.
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#5 User is offline   Nelly Icon

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Posted 23 February 2012 - 01:35 PM

View PostPres, on 23 February 2012 - 12:40 PM, said:

View Postnancylee, on 23 February 2012 - 12:31 PM, said:

View PostArnold Howard, on 23 February 2012 - 11:52 AM, said:

View Postnancylee, on 23 February 2012 - 10:25 AM, said:

When I unloaded the kiln today (not full at all, really just playing right now) the cone had fallen out, which is why it never turned the kiln off. When I went to try just now, when I set the cone and push the external button, the cone falls out. So I decided to try the old fashioned way, just like I learned to take photos on a Pentax K1000, and set up witness cones. I honestly would rather do this manually to get a feel of time and process, I have zero patience with technology that doesn't work.


Nancy, I think you should use the Kiln Sitter in addition to witness cones. Did you center the cone on the two cone supports? Is the rod on top of the cone? The cone should not fall out if it is installed that way. Before firing the kiln, you should also adjust the Kiln Sitter with a firing gauge.

You should use large cones as witness cones. It is important that they are slanted 8 degrees, or they will not bend accurately.

Sincerely,

Arnold Howard
Paragon Industries, L.P., Mesquite, Texas USA
ahoward@paragonweb.com / www.paragonweb.com


Thank you, Arnold! I just played with the kiln sitter and the cone didn't fall out this time! And I put some cones in near a peephole,too. I want to understand the timing and process, not just hit a button and walk away,
Nancy


Another thing to be aware of with any kiln, and especially sectional kilns. The kiln should be balanced, so that the setter is at perpendicular. At the same time if the setter is mounted over or near two sections if they are not aligned right the center will not go off. This because the bar that swings down won't. Be very cognizant of working with your setter to assure that you have safe firings-always a good idea to double check before starting the kiln that everything with the setter is right as it will save you much misery.



Dear All,

I would also add that it is important that you have your cone packs ready in advance so they are dry prior to putting in the kiln--that is, if you do not use a commercial stand. Make sure you do them a few days in advance. Along with the special 8 degree lean, make sure you have some holes poked around in the clay (if this is your method) to ensure the clay is optimally dry. Another trick I have learned with cone packs, that I use, is to paint them striped with a light wash of red iron oxide. It helps you see the cone through the peep hole as the kiln is fired. What you see through the peep hole as the kiln heats up is a striped barber pole. Read this in an old, old ceramics monthly. It reallly helped me in the beginning to start to see my cones effectively. Towards the end of the firing the stripes can be hard to detect but through the majority of the firing they are highly visible. In doing this, it has helped train my eyes to recognize where the cones are vis-a-vis my line of vision.

Nelly
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