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In today’s post, an excerpt from Ceramic Decorating Tool Techniques: How To Use Clay Pencils, Slip Trailers, Glaze Pens, and Carving Tools to Decorate Ceramics, David Gamble explains how he makes his own custom brushes. From selecting the right kind of bristle, to adding a hanging loop so the brushes can be stored properly, David walks us through this easier-than-you-think process. – Jennifer Harnetty, editor.
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Brushes are made from a wide variety of either animal hair or synthetics. The material affects how the brush loads and disperses a medium. For example, red sable hair is the best choice for watercolors and washes even though less expensive brushes can be made from camel, squirrel or horse hair. Stiff boar or hog bristles are good for oil paint, while in ceramics we tend to use hairs that load a lot of glaze, so we choose goat and China bristles (the industry term for hog hair). China bristles are normally longer and stiffer than goat hair.
By making your own brushes, you can control the qualities that are important and unique to you. Though manufactured brushes are made to perform well with certain media, as artists we tend to use whatever will work to make the marks we want.
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For more fabulous mark making ideas, check out Amy Sanders’ DVD Creative Forming with Custom Texture in the Ceramic Arts Daily Bookstore!
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Materials List
To begin making your brush, select the hair you’re going to use and get an extra long piece of dental floss to wrap the bottom of the hairs. Four hands work best for this so get someone to hold the hairs as you tie them (figure 1). Do not trim the floss yet. Next, cut the hairs at the base. Start with at least one inch of hair. If you want a longer brush, deer tail hair can be 3‚Äì4 inches in length or longer if you use most of the tail.
Remember that you’ll need to leave about 1/4 to 1/2inch of hair to glue and wrap together (figure 2), so if you want a 1-inch-long brush tip, cut the hair to 1 1/2 inch. Dip the cut end of the brush hair into a puddle of white glue (figure 3). Allow the hair to soak up the glue. Wrap and tightly tie the rest of the floss, forcing the base of the hairs together into a tightly bound tube-like shape (figure 4). Allow to dry before gluing into the handle.
Wrap masking tape around the end of the bamboo where you plan to cut and use a fine-toothed hacksaw or jeweler’s saw to cut the bamboo (figure 5). The tape keeps the bamboo from splintering. Sand both ends smooth (figure 6).
Drill a hole through the bamboo at the end of the handle using a small drill bit so you can add a thread to hang the brush up (figure 9). You can also sand flat a section at the top of the handle so you can write your name on the brush with a permanent marker. Tung oil can be used on the handle for a finishing touch. No other finishing or waterproofing is needed. Over time, the oils from your hand will give the brush handle a nice patina.
Trim off excess thread and add a thin amount of white glue over the wrap. I’ve also heard of thin copper wire being used.
With either method, once you’ve secured the brush hairs into the ferrule and the glue has dried, thread a piece of ribbon, twine, string or a leather strap through the hole at the end to create a hanging loop (figure 13). This finishing touch is just one more way to create your own special brushes.
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For more interesting homemade tool ideas, be sure to download Pottery Throwing Tools: A Guide to Making and Using Pottery Tools for Wheel Throwing, which is free to Ceramic Arts Daily subscribers.
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