June 8, 2009
Ten Tried and True Cone 6 Glaze Recipes Available for Download!
by Diana Pancioli Read Comments (18)
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Firing to mid-range, which includes cones 4-7, but most commonly cone 6, is increasingly popular these days. Some folks are reducing their firing temperature because they are thinking more about energy consumption from an environmental standpoint or a purely economical one. Others are just discovering the great potential of this firing range. So, we decided to put together a collection of cone 6 glaze recipes, packaged in a convenient recipe card format that can be printed, laminated (if you so choose) and taken into the studio. Today, I am presenting a couple of those tried and true cone 6 glazes from Diana Pancioli, but you can download (for FREE!!) the whole package on our free gifts page. - Jennifer Harnetty, editor.
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| Textured Blue Glaze Recipe |
Cone 6, reduction |
|
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| Talc |
17.0% |
| Whiting |
10.0% |
| Frit 3134 (Ferro) |
20.0% |
| Nepheline Syenite |
30.0% |
| Edgar Plastic Kaolin (EPK) |
13.0% |
| Silica (Flint) |
10.0% |
| Total: |
100.0% |
| Add: |
|
| Zircopax |
10.0% |
| Cobalt Carbonate |
0.5% |
| Copper Carbonate |
1.0% |
| Rutile |
3.0% |
|
This is Marcia Selsor’s Waxy White base with a number of colorants added. This variation was derived from a 50/50 color blend with rutile incorporated in the base for texture. Goes glossy on interiors and breaks beautifully over textures.
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| Fake Ash Glaze Recipe |
Cone 6, reduction |
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| Bone Ash |
5% |
| Dolomite |
25% |
| Lithium Carbonate |
2% |
| Strontium Carbonate |
9% |
| Frit 3134 (Ferro) |
10% |
| Kentucky Ball Clay (OM 4) |
24% |
| Cedar Heights Redart |
23% |
| Silica (Flint) |
2% |
| Total |
100% |
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This
is a beautifully variegated fake ash cone 6 glaze. It is a brighter yellow on
porcelain with hints of green where thicker, and terra cotta-colored
where thin. It is not stable because it is low in silica, but to alter
it would change the ash effect. While it does not meet strict
requirements of stability, I use it anyway because I substituted
strontium for barium.
Shelley | June 8th, 2009 at 4:36 pm
I started pottery about 6 years ago (part time at Dundas Valley School of Arts in Ontario, Canada)- I love it like crazy - I’m so confused about the glaze recipes, I wish I could make my own but the recipes confuse me. It’s all in percentages?
Art | June 9th, 2009 at 9:10 am
This is simple, say you want 1000 grams of glaze and it calls for 13%, multiply 1000 by .13. It is as follows 1000 X .13 = 130 grams. Or say you want 10 pounds same way 10 X .13 = 1.3 pounds. Always multiply by the percent expressed as a decimal. 1% = .01 1/2% = .005 10% = .10 and so on, it is easy when it is broken down to small numbers.
Steven | June 9th, 2009 at 12:13 pm
When some people are new this they get confused on the additonal parts (colorants, Bentonite, etc.) You add them to the 100, hence the term addition, rather than what some people put out on the internet that you break the whole thing down into %’s. Remember potters by nature have worked with these formulas for a long time and didn’t always have a calculator right next to them. So if it calls for Ball Clay 10, it means 10% ball clay. So if you have a 1000g batch as Art says then you will have 100grams of Ball clay to add. If you are wondering how much it takes to fill a 5gallon bucket, it generally takes about 10,000 grams depending on the chemicals present in the mix.
Marianne | June 13th, 2009 at 1:10 am
When the percentages include decimal figures which all add up to 100% including oxides or any other additions, is there a way to work it back to the original recipe? Maths not being my stronest point, I usually just round up or down and hope for the best!
William | June 13th, 2009 at 3:05 pm
I’m a “newbie” to glazes too and have yet to mix my own. When recipes are written as the textured blue above and the second part calls for 4 additional ingredients which add up to an additional 14.5% do we add these to the 100% other ingredients for a total batch of 114.5% or do we add 95.5% of the first part to 14.5% of the second part? Traditional convention is confusing sometimes….especially for me ;)
lana | June 14th, 2009 at 3:21 am
Please let us know in advance if the glazes are REDUCTION cone 6.
Denise | June 15th, 2009 at 11:14 am
There’s no reason why these 2 recipes wouldn’t work in Oxidation, I’d try them if you like them.
Joda | June 16th, 2009 at 9:33 pm
Where do you buy all of these ingredients? Can anyone recommend a site that is a supplier to the average person and not a biz..
Trygve | June 30th, 2009 at 1:49 am
There are a vast variety of suppliers, but geography is vital (EPK/kaolin, for example, can come from Florida to Britain). Who you want to order from will depend first on the shipping location (since shipping costs money!) and what kind of variety they can provide. I live in Minnesota, and a few close suppliers on my list are Continental Clay Company and Minnesota Clay Company, which both provide various weights of raw materials. It is also good to keep in mind that a little can go a long way, so it is best not to get too caught up in ordering a large quantity of material, unless you are certain you will be needing however much you order.
Trygve | June 30th, 2009 at 2:35 am
The Ceramic Arts Daily text “Ceramic Workshop Handbook: Pottery Tools and Ceramic Studio Resources” also has a very healthy list of suppliers in the last pages of the text, depending on what US state you are in. (Check it out on the “Free Gifts” page.)
Joda | July 3rd, 2009 at 2:41 pm
I am so new that I do not know what you are talking about?
So if I wanted to mix say a blue color…what would I do?
What exactly is oxidation? Does that mean adding oxygen or bubble to the paint? (so new)
Where have you found a site that speaks (plain) english and is easily understood that gives recipes and it is not like reading greek?
Thanks.
kjoda67@yahoo.com
Rick & Jetty | July 4th, 2009 at 11:53 am
I have been mixing glazes for a long time and have never heard of “light rutile.” Is there any difference between that and regular rutile?
Rick
Daryl | July 6th, 2009 at 4:55 pm
Has anyone tried these glazes in Oxidation? If so please let me know how they come out.
Brigitta | August 26th, 2009 at 10:59 am
I find all the comments very helpful, I am also new to mixing glazes for myself and the comments made some things a lot clearer in my mind. Why does nobody seem to be talking about how you know how much water to add to each individual recipe? I would think that this is also of major importance. From what I know there is some kind of meter that you let float in the glaze that indicates if the water amount added is correct. Is it called a hygrometer? I am looking forward to any helpful answers. I would also like to see if anyone has some recipes which are 1. food safe and 2. also would like to find out where I can find glaze recipes that have non toxic ingredients.
jim | September 11th, 2009 at 1:29 pm
I have a question. When firing a plate with a glaze at cone 6, should I use “pins” or place the plate directly on the kiln shelve? My concern is to prevent warping of the plate. Thank you Jim.
Daryl | September 13th, 2009 at 11:13 pm
Fire your plate directly on the kiln shelf.
pam | October 27th, 2009 at 8:44 pm
If you are really interested in learning about glazes, I highly recommend the informative articles on http://www.Digitalfire.com. There is something for both newbies and more experienced potters.
MARY | January 9th, 2010 at 12:48 pm
i live in S.C. where would the nearest supplier be?