October 19, 2009
Clay on the Wall: An Introduction to Hanging Ceramic Wall Pieces
 |
If you are interested in taking your ceramic art from the tabletop to the wall, but aren’t quite sure how to do it, you’re probably not alone. There are many different ways to hang ceramic wall art and it can be overwhelming to figure out the best way, especially for those just starting out. Clay presents particular challenges as wall art because of its weight and fragility, but innovative ceramic artists have found a multitude of ways to successfully get their clay on the wall. |
||
|
Every ceramic art hanging material - wood, clay, Perspex, metal or glass - has its own attraction and if used successfully will not only support the ceramics, but will also enhance the final outcome. You don’t need to be a specialist in using these materials, but it does help if you understand how your chosen medium will support the work. A builders’ merchant, timber yard  Stoneware wall block, 12 X 12 inches, by Dominique Bivar Segurado. This also applies to fixings and fittings as it might be hard to envisage them against the work. Try asking for a test sample, or one fitting, before committing to a large order. This will also give you an idea of scale, and how the fitting is to be attached to the ceramics and the wall. The following are some examples and suggestions of materials that can be used to hang ceramics. |
|||
|
Be sure to download you’re free copy of the Buyers Guide to Ceramic Supplies to learn where to find the tools you need to create your ceramic wall art! |
|||
Hanging Materials for Ceramic Wall Art Ceramic lugs and wire can be used to hang smaller scale wall works as shown in this detail of Stoneware Wall Block. Ceramics itself can be used in many forms to support wall pieces. One of the easiest is to create a simple loop on the back of the piece. It is essential to note that the loop(s) must be of a reasonable size and thickness to support the weight as ceramics, though strong under compression, does not respond well to distortion and pressure. The larger the work, the more loops or holes are needed to spread the weight. Equally, if you are boring a hole in your work to thread wire through, it must not be too near an edge, as otherwise the weight of the work may break off the corner or edge where the hole has been made. The hole needs to be well within the piece, but without being visible. Wire and String If the wall piece is to be hung like a canvas or a picture in a frame, wire can be one of the simplest and most suitable materials to use. There are varying thicknesses of wire that can be used: picture wire is good for lightweight pieces; thicker, galvanized wires are recommended for heavier pieces. When hanging ensure the weight is distributed. Most wires can be found in hardware shops, often by the yard or meter, and the shop should be able to recommend a wire providing you know the weight of the work.
Wood Wood is an excellent resource as it comes in many forms, colors, textures and hardnesses. It is also widely available, and has the advantage that it can be glued onto, screwed into, nailed, drilled and painted. The use of wood can vary from being a backing material to acting as a frame for the piece - or both. Many makers do use wood as a backing material as it is durable and easily obtained. A wooden surface is something to consider seriously if the wall you will be working on is uneven, cracked or unsuitable in some way, or might not be a permanent location. If the wall is very large, it might be worth considering employing a contractor.  Detail of keyhole fitting, rawlplug and screwhead before hanging a wood-backed ceramic piece on the wall. The illustrations to the left show an easy way to hang a small wooden-backed wall piece. First it is important to check for any wiring or pipes. The space is measured between the two fittings and the correct distance is allowed. A straight line is drawn on the wall and the first drill hole is made for the rawlplug. Once the rawlplug is in position and the screw put in, the level is checked with a spirit level; the next hole is drilled and screwed, and the level is checked again. The fittings on the back of the piece are designed to be supported by the head of the screws.  Ceramic Fragments, by Dominique Bivar Segurado. Perspex/Acrylic Perspex, also known as acrylic, acrylic glass or plexiglass, is a successful material to use as a backing: it is durable, weather resistant, soundproof, lightweight and easy to drill into and join ceramics to. Another advantage is that it can be obtained in many forms - clear, opaque, colored - and also in varying thicknesses, so there is vast scope to interact with the wall surface or disguise it if needed. As a material Perspex also has a very modern feel, if that is what you need. For Belgian artist Jeanne Opgenhaffen, who works with thin pieces of colored and printed porcelain, Perspex makes an ideal clear white lightweight backing. In “How the Wind Blows,” (shown at the top of the page) each individual piece is positioned on the surface of the Perspex. The Perspex is then attached to the wall by a wall bracket fixing. It could be described as a ledge with a lip (on the wall) and then the Perspex slots on to this ledge. |
|||
This clip was excerpted from Wall Pieces, which is available November 2009 in the Ceramic Arts Daily Bookstore.
Pre-order today and get free shipping!
Tags: Ceramic Sculpture, Dominique Bivar Segurado, Hanging ceramic wall art
Myra | October 19th, 2009 at 1:31 pm
Well, I just made my first ceramic piece to hang on a wall–it isn’t even dry enough yet to fire. So imagine my surprise when I read your Daily piece on hanging…etc.
Thank you!
Myra Ducharme
Missoula, MT
Jan | October 19th, 2009 at 1:49 pm
I’ve made a number of pieces that need to be hung and hadn’t yet figured out a good way. I like the idea of attaching the ceramic piece to wood. But what adhesive does one use to attach the ceramic piece to the wood?
Sharon | October 19th, 2009 at 1:50 pm
Bronze wire (instead of Brass) is best for outdoors. Can be bought soft enough to bend with pliers.
Stuart | October 19th, 2009 at 2:00 pm
DISPLAYING PLATES, PLATTERS, AND BOWLS
Clear, one-piece bent acrylic plate stands and bowl holders are made by Sapir Studios (see ad in many issues of Ceramics Monthly). These can be set on a horizontal surface, such as a shelf or table. Also, they can be attached to a hollow wall, either by drilling holes and screwing into its studs or by drilling between the studs, using flanged or winged toggle bolts, available at hardwood stores. Various other hardware fasteners are available for attaching to solid walls of brick or concrete. The Sapir stands come pre-drilled with two holes that facilitate such mountings. When hung in any of these ways, plates and bowls can easily be lifted off the stands when needed for dining, then replaced afterwards.
A second method for attaching plates and platters to walls is to make these pieces with a concavity (grove) in the outer surface of their foot. Using a commercially available fastener, a length of twisted or braided (not solid) stainless steel wire is run firmly all the way around this grove in the fired piece, with a crimped fastener connecting the overlapping strands. The lengths of these strands are each curved 180 degrees backwards on themselves, jointly forming a second, smaller loop that is also affirmed by means of a crimped metal fastener. This smaller loop can then be used to hang the platter on a wall, using the head of a sufficiently strong fastener such as those described above.
Unlike solid stainless steel wire, twisted or braided stainless steel of comparable size does not have the undesirable traits described by DB Segurado. Unlike iron or copper wire, it does not rust or corrode and is much stronger than either.
Stuart Altmann
Marcia | October 19th, 2009 at 2:49 pm
I guess I am wondering how to adhere the ceramic piece to the wood, glass, plexi, etc… they didn’t cover that in the excerpt…is it covered in the book?
harvey | October 19th, 2009 at 2:58 pm
I echo Marcia’s question. I have found that two piece epoxy seems to be the most stable. I have had less than excellent results with tubes of construction adhesive and with ‘gorilla glue’, which expands and leaves a residue around the edge of the glue joint which needs to be carved off, a difficult task if you’re working under a lip.
If you know that the ceramic piece you are creating will be affixed to some form of ‘backer board’, for lack of a better term, leave a hole in the back of the piece. When fired, fill the hole with a wooden dowel plug. then one can drill into that plug through a corresponding hole in the ‘backer board.
Cyn | October 19th, 2009 at 3:31 pm
I have made many ceramic and ceramic/mixed media wall pieces, and I’ve used several methods to hang them.
In terms of a neat-looking finish, I prefer to integrate a channel through which a wire can be strung directly into the design, but it isn’t always practical (the channel can cause the design to warp in the firing), and it doesn’t always work out (sometimes the channel closes up during the firing). My usual hanging method involves expoxying* 1 to 4 small solid brass hexagonal plumbing fittings** to the back, and running wire through them. Sometimes I’ll design and fire separate haging devices and then epoxy THEM to the back of the piece.
*JB Qwik is a two-part epoxy that’s an attractive black color
**They’re a tad pricey for the size, but I’ve been getting mine at Home Depot.
Here are photos of a few of my wall pieces (I just made two new ones recently, so look for their photos in a week or two) http://pissycat.multiply.com/photos/album/19 .
Cyn Stern
Therese | October 19th, 2009 at 3:48 pm
Clear fishing line. I can wrap it around a piece without it being seen. I use 50-100 lb test weight line and it works great.
Joe | October 19th, 2009 at 5:24 pm
I love the last one. It kinda just kicks everything else with its simplictity.
Suzy | October 19th, 2009 at 5:52 pm
We use a glue called E 6000 to glue on hooks, then string with picture wire. Does take about 24 hrs to dry. So far I have not heard of any ceramic wall hung piece falling.
Dana | October 19th, 2009 at 6:42 pm
I am wondering if you could use the stuff they attach ceramic tiles to bathroom walls and such in mounting a flat backed ceramic piece to a board?
Arice | October 19th, 2009 at 7:49 pm
I use the product, “Liquid Nails” to attach ceramic pieces to wood and other things. Also use it for attaching sculptural clay components together - sometimes using threaded metal rods between them…
Liquid Nails comes in tubes and in cans (like paint cans).
ana | October 19th, 2009 at 10:05 pm
I have been working on ceramic murals for almost 20 years and the best method for my work is using wood. My icons are mounted on wood (either as a frame or as a backing) and I use contact cement. Once you have glued it…there is no way to separate the parts!. I have used it even for metal as a base for ceramics/ I also use it for adhere sculptures to wood. You can see my work in anacaravias.multiply.com
E-6000 is great to use for fused glass because it does not show and it does not yellow.
Nirmala | October 19th, 2009 at 11:41 pm
Marcia and Harvey mentioned this too ..I am experimenting with attaching thin, flat pieces of porcelain onto plexi and I haven’t yet found the perfect solution. Two piece epoxy didn’t work for me - any solutions?
Don | October 20th, 2009 at 8:29 am
I use plywood adhered on the reverse with urethane (Gorilla glue) or sometimes epoxy. I usually use pins through the plywood into the ceramic for a mechanical joint in addition to the adhesive (much like Harvey’s description above, although sometimes drilled afterwards with a carbide-tipped ‘glass’ or ‘masonry’ drill bit). The plywood back is smaller than the ceramic, with beveled edges. The excess hardened adhesive is ground/sanded away, then any imperfections are filled with black caulking, or simply painted black if no imperfections. The plywood has a pair of leveled keyhole-type slots routed into the reverse for hanging. After assembly and finishing I make a cardboard template to facilitate placement of screws and hanging on the wall. Here are some examples: http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2027864&id=1493786289&l=e7ee2f2ca0
gwenn | October 20th, 2009 at 2:34 pm
The concept of clay on walls - and ceilings - has called to me for years. I would however, encourage anyone wishing to try this to please ask someone with more technical knowledge in metals. Aluminum IS solderable, and with the proper tools any wire, even stainless steel, is easily manipulated. And please don’t limit yourself to wire. Brackets of all kinds are easily fabricated to support even the largest of clay pieces. It is best to engineer the clay piece to accept a bracket mount, be it metal or wood.
Silicone adhesive/caulking is also a good glue to use on ceramics, as it bonds to the silica/quartz at a molecular level (a form of silastic bonding). The ideal here is clay piece mounted on glass, but any silicone adhesive formulated to stick to metals or woods will do nicely. The bond is quite durable and needless to say, waterproof.
nancy | October 21st, 2009 at 7:56 am
A tile shop I once visited had an ingenious way of hanging heavy tile sample boards by gluing the tiles onto a wood backing and then hanging the piece from metal carpet edging. one piece of the edging was attatched to the tiles and one piece was attatched to the wall. The “tile” metal piece slides down into the groove of the wall “metal” piece. You can cut the metal to fit the size of your piece.
Cristine | October 21st, 2009 at 1:51 pm
Hanging systems are wonderful. I’m always looking for ad inventing new ways of getting things vertical. Check out the Hang It Up article in the July August issue of Pottery Making Illustrated. This is a system I devised to hang plates and Platters in a way that the hanger can be easily removed so the pieces can be utilized then stored as display on the wall. I have also devised a system for hanging bowls (“ice cream bowls), as opposed to serving bowls, though as I write this there is no reason why this system would not work for serving bowls. Check out my website http://www.allclay.com. I’m more than happy to share and teach my information. I’m more than happy to conduct workshops any where as well.
Cristine Boyd dba All Clay
Ceci | October 23rd, 2009 at 10:18 am
I get wrought iron plate stands at Pier 1 for 5.99 and it is a regular product in their inventory. It works for large items on a table top but get this…it has 2 holes on the back iron support to be able to screw onto a wall. I have one pictured here with my platter. Sorry, no view of the back of the stand.
http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=33095549
maggi | October 23rd, 2009 at 11:01 am
I have been using 100%clear silicone for over ten years works with wood metal hardibacker, plywood and its felxible so it works out doors in fridged weather
Karen B | October 28th, 2009 at 4:25 pm
Do not use Gorilla glue to fix ceramic to wood. It will fail, as it did for me on all the tiles I mounted. I punch holes in the corners of the tiles when soft and later screw the tiles into the wood with shiny brass screws. Looks great.
zsavon | November 4th, 2009 at 2:23 pm
Ana, what brand of contact cement do you use? Would anyone recommend mixing glues to avoid any accidents?