Some folks feel like using commercial glazes is cheating, but I say, hogwash! I have been using commercial glazes for the past couple of years because, with very limited time in the studio, I don’t have time for mixing and testing. I have discovered some commercial glazes that I am very fond of and if I can find any ways to maximize my time making, I am all for it. Plus, with a little experimentation, you can make them your own.
In today’s post, an excerpt from the September/October 2014 issue of Pottery Making Illustrated, Deanna Ranlett explains some ways she has found to create great surfaces with commercial glazes.- Jennifer Harnetty, editor.
As detailed in the direct and stencil approaches shown previously, glaze application methods are as infinite as our imagination. Nearly every item around the studio or house has the potential to be a glaze applicator. It just takes a little imagination to see the potential, and experimenting is key to discovering new ideas. Today, Frank James Fisher will present the transfer method that he uses to create beautiful patterning on his pots.
Ceramic stains and underglazes mixed with water painted on unfired white-glazed bisque is pretty similar to watercolor painting on paper. The main difference is that the glazed bisque surface absorbs the color and water mixture more quickly. But once you get used to that, you can create beautiful watercolor-like surfaces. In today’s post, an excerpt from the July/August 2014 issue of Pottery Making Illustrated, Laurie Curtis shares her simple technique.- Jennifer Harnetty, editor.
Oribe ware is a type of ceramics that originated in the 16th century and is known for its copper green glaze and bold patterns. Ben Krupka is a fan of the experimental and playful feel of Oribe. In today’s post, Ben explains how he uses slips, wax resist, sgraffito and inlay techniques to create his own interpretation of this historical style.- Jennifer Harnetty, editor.
If you have ever experienced using a tried and true glaze in one firing and had the exact same glaze come out completely differently in a later firing. There are lots of different reasons why this could happen, but a common one is that the glaze density was not consistent from one glazing session to the next. In today’s post, an excerpt from her new DVD Flat to Functional: Handbuilding and Slip Decorating, Lisa Naples gives some great tips for making sure your glaze results are consistent.- Jennifer Harnetty, editor.
I have to admit, glazing is not my favorite part of the ceramic process. It’s probably because of its potential to make or break a good pot (and believe me, I have broken quite a few with poor glaze application). I tend to be a bit of a sloppy glazer and I sometimes rush through it a little more quickly than I should. Denver, Colorado ceramic artist Annie Chrietzberg is the polar opposite of me in the glaze room: methodical and precise. I know my glazing outcomes could be greatly improved if I followed just a couple of Annie’s tips, so I thought I would share them with the community. Hopefully you will benefit from Annie’s advice too!
In today’s post, Martha explains that her glazed surfaces, which are often mistaken for soda-fired, are actually achieved through spraying on layers of various cone 10 glazes.
Glancing at Scott Dooley’s pots, you might not immediately think there was just one glaze recipe used. But it’s true. By using a copper wash under one base glaze with a variety of colorants, Scott creates his lovely mottled surfaces. In today’s post, Scott shares his process. To boot we’ll give you the glaze recipe! – Jennifer Harnetty, editor.
I think everyone who has a passion for making pottery has experienced the heartbreak of making a great pot and then ruining it in the glaze stage. I certainly have. In fact, I think glazing and decorating is the most challenging part of this medium. So today I am sharing this video clip from Linda Arbuckle’s Majolica DVD. Not only does Linda give excellent advice and show examples for how to develop successful decoration. But she also shares a number of great technical tips for painting with majolica colors. Though this clip was condensed quite a bit for web posting, I still think it is packed with great information.
Glaze testing is essential if you are interested in really personalizing and perfecting your work. And to improve your results, it helps to have test tiles that mimic the kind of work you make. In this video, an excerpt from his DVD Understanding Glazes: How to Test, Tweak, and Perfect Your Glazes, John Britt shows several different ways to make test tiles. Chances are, you’ll find one that makes sense with what you are making. – Jennifer Harnetty, editor.